The clutch will help but why not just use low range for lower gearing.

As for running in Hi, I checked my hours and mileage between oil changes and I am a slow poke compared to most, I average a little over 4 mph with 99.99% running in Hi range with no problems

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I do use low range, in fact that’s what I usually use. It seems like there could be more of a jump between low and high range.
This would also help while I’m using the plow

 

Or maybe what lm wanting is for the clutch to engage sooner in relation to the throttle. From a stop, as I add throttle it kinda lurches a little faster than I want, instead of slowly moving forward.

 

A machined sheave and a shim would lower your gear ratio. Should help with your desire for a granny gear.
As for clutch engagement, there does seem to be a little bit of break-in on the centrifugal clutch for smooth feel. How many hours do you have on the machine? It seems to help to actually work the clutch. Like, rock crawling - where it is forced to slip. Maybe you could play around a little, then change the oil.

 

Toss in 1.5mm of shims and call it a day. The Kodiak in low gear is already low. I couldn't imagine running in low for more than a couple minutes at a time, I'm not one for speed, I like to enjoy the sceanery asking the trails, but low gear is way too low for that. I only use it for big hill climbs or a deep mud hole.

 

It only has 15 hrs on it, maybe I’ll try working the clutch a little more. Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the replies

 

I had the same problem with my 2018 Kodiak and wanted a slower speed like you. I added a 4 shims(1mm) to the clutch and got down to 3 km/h with little throttle pressure. It worked great but found it a bit too slow....so this year I pulled out 1 shim and now at a total of 0.75mm shim stock installed. I run at 4 km/h now which works for me. Adding a couple of shims is the cheapest and easiest way to get some results without spending a bunch of money. See my post below.

2018 Kodiak 450 Speed Issue

 

Good info lund17, I just received the shims and I should have them installed this weekend.
I wonder if there’s a difference between the 450 and the 700 models. I’ll try 1.5mm and see what happens.
I’ve been thinking about the shims, weights and springs and what effect each one has.
Maybe someone can clarify for me.
So the shims just have the effect of lowering your gear ratio?
And, changing weights and springs have the effect of changing the rpm that the clutch engages?

 

If you haven't seen this video yet, go ahead and watch it. The video will help understand the interworkings of Yamaha's Ultramatic CVT.

The shims, and also a machined primary moveable sheave, have the effect of widening the gap between the primary fixed and primary moveable sheaves, thus allowing the belt to drop slightly lower on the primary side and then results in the belt riding higher on the secondary side. That helps magnify the low end torque at low throttle speeds. Think of it how traditional bicycles work with multiple gears, e.g. two or more chain rings on the front and two or more gears on the rear cassette.

The roller weights result in helping to close the distance between the primary sheaves while getting the belt to ride up higher between the primary sheaves. The roller weights do this by moving towards the outside circumference of the primary moveable sheave, lighter moves to the outside slower than heavier roller weights. Thus it takes more RPMs to move the Kodiak OEM weights than the Grizzly OEM weights.

The secondary spring keeps pressure on holding the secondary sheaves together. This helps to keep the belt from slipping but also helps with engine braking. So when you magnify the torque by way of changing the primary sheaves, a stronger secondary spring will help the belt from slipping and can also increase the engine braking you get.


I believe I got all of that correct but someone interject if you see something wrong about my information, thanks.

EDIT: changed the light roller weights move out slower

 

The roller weights result in helping to close the distance between the primary sheaves while getting the belt to ride up higher between the primary sheaves. The roller weights do this by moving towards the outside circumference of the primary moveable sheave, lighter moves to the outside quicker than heavier roller weights. Thus it takes more RPMs to move the Kodiak OEM weights than the Grizzly OEM weights.

I think the Grizzly weights move out slower, or takes higher rpm to gear up. Makes for more power, or staying in a lower gear longer

 

Cool, I think I got it confused in my mind but followed up with that it takes more RPMs, from the Kodiak, to move the weights out. I will correct my post so it is hopefully, less confusing.