[JimP]

Well I dropped the coin the other day on 501 Parts Grabber kit with the push buttons since it was on sale.

So who on here has installed one on a Kodiak 700. I have watched the video on their web site but it is good to hear what a novice has ran into when they installed it themselves.

Today I started the tear down. I pulled my tires and brake rotors and did a rookie mistake. On the right side brake caliper I undid the brake banjo bolt on the caliper and as it started to drain brake fluid I thought to myself "what have I done" By the time I realized what I had done it was too late so I'll have to pick up some brake fluid and bleed that caliper. Sometimes I amaze myself at what kind of a blunder I can do. Hopefully this is the only one on this install.

I plan on getting the diff out on the fourth and then I'll have to wait for the kit that is suppose to be delivered on Thursday to finish it up.

So any suggestions on what might work better on the tear down or installation or just follow the direction and video?

 

[JimP]

Well today I almost finished the tear down for the install. A couple of notes.

I had to pull the whole A arm off of the drivers side to get the axle out. I was able to pull the axle out of the diff but to remove it I didn't have the room to get the outer end out of the spindle area. On the passenger side the whole A arm comes off so it didn't matter.

If you have the guards on the A arm you will need to pull them off or have a heck of a time working around them to pull the shocks on both sides. Also pull the front skid plate off to keep from making a mess when the oil drains out. I also drained the oil after I pulled the skid plate.

Now to watch the video again on pulling the diff out from the frame again. Then I just need to wait for the post office to let me know that I have a package sitting there to pick up.

 

[Vincent]

I have no advice to give on this mod but I certainly want to congratulate you on taking the diff lock plunge. It's a feature I would never want to be without. My diff lock has gotten me out of MANY, nasty and at times scary situations.

 

[JimP]

I have always managed to get out of problems with out the diff lock, at least all but one time but that was years ago with a old 350 Yamaha Big Bear. I got my base model Kodiak for such a good price I knew that I could add a lot of extras before I got up to the models with the diff lock on them and with the sale going on at 501 Parts I figured that it was a good time to do it. It also didn't hurt that they now have the electrical one in stock so when I get done I'll have the push buttons for both the 4x4 and diff lock.

Before too long I'll have just about all the extras that I like on a machine. I am still looking for a whole digital dash/headlight set up but I am not sure if I really need this on mines since I have a Trail Tech meter on it now.

 

[JimP]

I picked up my diff kit this morning and already have the diff rebuilt and back in the Kodiak. Here are a couple of things that I came across.


Pick up some red loctite for the reassenbly of the diff. You will need it.

My diff did not just fall apart as the video shows, it took a little bit of gentle prying to get it apart. Mind you I said GENTLE prying and work in a circular pattern until it pops out.

You should also have a plastic headed hammer or rubber mallet. This will keep you from damaging any of the aluminum that the diff is made out of.

The reassembly was easy except for getting everything reseated back into the diff case. This is where a plastic or rubber mallet or hammer comes in handy, just work your way around the case until it is seated.

I was wondering about the length of the cable from the switch that connects to the throttle and down to the battery area. I was ready to splice in some extra to get the connectors under the cover but I didn't need to even with my slightly taller bars and being the base model.

The wires that they suggest for power in the one video are buried in the back of the harnesses. I finally found them with a dummy plug connected to it. I am going to splice in a new connector so that if needed everything can be unplugged instead of cutting wires. They are connected to the fuel pump relay and fuse for future reference


I'll finish up bolting everything back together on Friday.

 

[JimP]

Well things are 99% back together I just need to go back through and check the torque on all the bolts and tighten up the tie rod ends.

There were a couple of glitches but a couple of emails to Steve at 501 Parts and all is well.

Just as a fyi for those that install the kit with the electric servo. You will no longer have a 4x4 light and will have to go by the switch position to tell if you are in it or not. The original cable set up had the switch located on the piece that you replaced with the servo and there is no provisions to move the switch or wires to tap into to get the 4x4 light to light up. I am going to see if I can get something to work, it is just figuring out the correct wire on the new harness to power a separate relay to ground the 4x4 light to get it to come on.

But other than that and a hour or so on Sunday and I'll be ready to go for a ride. Over all the tear down was the hardest part. Going back together was a piece of cake. Setting up the wiring harness and getting it all looking good took the longest but it is in and I am good to go.

So, thanks to Steve at 501 Parts for putting this kit together. If anyone is thinking about it I would highly recommend it. If anyone on here has any questions about it go ahead and post them here or send me a PM and I'll see if I can answer them for you or just send a email to Steve on his contact form and he'll get back to you. Just so that you know I am not affiliated with 501 Parts in any way, just a happy customer.

 

[Vincent]

Well things are 99% back together I just need to go back through and check the torque on all the bolts and tighten up the tie rod ends.

There were a couple of glitches but a couple of emails to Steve at 501 Parts and all is well.

Just as a fyi for those that install the kit with the electric servo. You will no longer have a 4x4 light and will have to go by the switch position to tell if you are in it or not. The original cable set up had the switch located on the piece that you replaced with the servo and there is no provisions to move the switch or wires to tap into to get the 4x4 light to light up. I am going to see if I can get something to work, it is just figuring out the correct wire on the new harness to power a separate relay to ground the 4x4 light to get it to come on.

But other than that and a hour or so on Sunday and I'll be ready to go for a ride. Over all the tear down was the hardest part. Going back together was a piece of cake. Setting up the wiring harness and getting it all looking good took the longest but it is in and I am good to go.

So, thanks to Steve at 501 Parts for putting this kit together. If anyone is thinking about it I would highly recommend it. If anyone on here has any questions about it go ahead and post them here or send me a PM and I'll see if I can answer them for you or just send a email to Steve on his contact form and he'll get back to you. Just so that you know I am not affiliated with 501 Parts in any way, just a happy customer.

Awesome to hear everything is working out so fare!

 

[[email protected]]

Up until the indicator light part I was pretty excited about doing this. I hope it's an easy fix. Interested in your final review. Getting out and trying it has got to be driving you crazy. Haha! It would me👍

 

[[email protected]]

Any updates on the new installation?

 

[JimP]

She is all done, I finished it up last weekend.

I havn't had a chance to take it out riding yet since some plans fell through and I'll have to wait until after next weekend but it is ready.

I sent a email off to Steve at 501 Parts and he is aware of the problem of no 4x4 light. He thinks that on the servo plug that there might be a port on the plug that can be used to run the light but he hasn't investigated it too far yet but he did say that he plans to. I looked things over and tried to figure out a way to get the light lit up just when the button is pushed but got side tracked. It would take a couple of relays I think but I would need to look at a wiring diagram of the wire harness that is supplied to figure it out.

If I was you I would go for the kit and wouldn't let the no 4x4 light be a negative factor. Once you have everything apart it the new carrier goes in without a hitch and back together with no problems. It actually went back together a lot faster than it came apart, then it is just figuring out where you plan to get the key on power to power it. A person has a video of where he tapped into a dead headed plug that is under the battery cover but when I went to use it I screwed it up and pulled it out of a connector somewhere or broke the wire while I was stripping it. This plug and key on power is connected to the fuel pump relay if you want to know. I used another key on power source since I had one available from when I wired in my heated grips.

 

[[email protected]]

Well that's good to hear. I'd like to get it as soon as I can. The dealer put a new front diff. and acuator on mine, and it still has that loud thump about 75% of the time when I engage 4WD. I'm hoping this would remedy that. They had no answere as to why it does it. ( aggravating)

 

[JimP]

The cable actuator has a spring on it where it attaches to the front diff inside of the actuator itself. This could be part of what you are hearing. With the electric one you will hear the servo motor turning the gears in the diff so there still will be a noise just different.

I don't know if I mentioned it or not but on the tear down and reinstall air tools are nice but are not needed. When you get to the disassembly of the carrier is where a impact wrench would come in handy. I'm not sure just how it would be with one person trying to break the bolts loose since they have red loctite on them to keep them on the carrier but a breaker bar and another person would be the most that you might need to break the bolts loose if you don't have air tools.

 

[oleblue22]

Thanks for the great review JimP. Stephen here with 501 Parts. I'm glad you are enjoying the kit. Let us know if we can ever help you with anything. If anyone has any questions at all about the kit, please let me know.

 

[Vincent]

She is all done, I finished it up last weekend.

I havn't had a chance to take it out riding yet since some plans fell through and I'll have to wait until after next weekend but it is ready.

I sent a email off to Steve at 501 Parts and he is aware of the problem of no 4x4 light. He thinks that on the servo plug that there might be a port on the plug that can be used to run the light but he hasn't investigated it too far yet but he did say that he plans to. I looked things over and tried to figure out a way to get the light lit up just when the button is pushed but got side tracked. It would take a couple of relays I think but I would need to look at a wiring diagram of the wire harness that is supplied to figure it out.

If I was you I would go for the kit and wouldn't let the no 4x4 light be a negative factor. Once you have everything apart it the new carrier goes in without a hitch and back together with no problems. It actually went back together a lot faster than it came apart, then it is just figuring out where you plan to get the key on power to power it. A person has a video of where he tapped into a dead headed plug that is under the battery cover but when I went to use it I screwed it up and pulled it out of a connector somewhere or broke the wire while I was stripping it. This plug and key on power is connected to the fuel pump relay if you want to know. I used another key on power source since I had one available from when I wired in my heated grips.

Have you had a chance to try or play around with your new diff lock system yet?

 

[JimP]

I'd love to get out and take a ride but all of my riding areas have fires burning on them.

This whole state is going to go up in flames if people are not careful. Just about all the fires in Colorado are human caused doing stupid stuff.

Hopefully I get out towards the end of this week and give it a work out. But I did check it in the garage when it was up on blocks and it locks up the front end the way it is suppose to.

 

[Saint_T]

Sounds like a great mod for us with the base models. Admittedly, beyond my mechanical expertise. Anyone in the Connecticut region who could do the installation if I did purchase?

 

[Vincent]

Sounds like a great mod for us with the base models. Admittedly, beyond my mechanical expertise. Anyone in the Connecticut region who could do the installation if I did purchase?

Any competent mechanic can install this kit for you..... And yes its worth it.

 

[JimP]

Sounds like a great mod for us with the base models. Admittedly, beyond my mechanical expertise. Anyone in the Connecticut region who could do the installation if I did purchase?

If you can turn a wrench and can pay attention to detail you can do it.

Air tools are nice but are not needed.

There is a video on his web site where he goes through it step by step.

 

[Humidxc]

I have always managed to get out of problems with out the diff lock, at least all but one time but that was years ago with a old 350 Yamaha Big Bear. I got my base model Kodiak for such a good price I knew that I could add a lot of extras before I got up to the models with the diff lock on them and with the sale going on at 501 Parts I figured that it was a good time to do it. It also didn't hurt that they now have the electrical one in stock so when I get done I'll have the push buttons for both the 4x4 and diff lock.

Before too long I'll have just about all the extras that I like on a machine. I am still looking for a whole digital dash/headlight set up but I am not sure if I really need this on mines since I have a Trail Tech meter on it now.

Jim,
Thinking about doing this. How have the last 2 years or so been with this mod? Any electric issues? I’m one of those people that not only wanted to save the money when I bought the base model, but I like the idea of having a mechanical lever to shift to in and out of four-wheel-drive and not rely on a power supply if I got an a pinch.
If I do the electric grabber, is there a way to maintain my lever action as a backup if the electric goes tits up?

 

[Vincent]

Jim,
Thinking about doing this. How have the last 2 years or so been with this mod? Any electric issues? I’m one of those people that not only wanted to save the money when I bought the base model, but I like the idea of having a mechanical lever to shift to in and out of four-wheel-drive and not rely on a power supply if I got an a pinch.
If I do the electric grabber, is there a way to maintain my lever action as a backup if the electric goes tits up?

If your that concerned about going the electrical route, just get the less expensive Manuel cable version of the 501 locker.

There is no way of having both electric and Manuel engagement on these