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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just brought a Kodiak 700 2018 model.

For the engine's oil the manual says: 20 hours, 160 hours, 320 hours. Does this mean after changing it the first 320 hours mark, it okay to now wait in the future to change it again during the 320 hours mark?

I haven't been find to locate anything on the power steering fluid, though. When should that be changed?
 

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There's no powersteering fluid. It's an electronic power assist.

The Manuel is implying to change the oil every 160 hrs, or about 1600 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm guessing the 320 hours mentioned is just initially? Every time after that, change it at the 160 hours mark?
 

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Change it at the 20 hr mark, that's your break in period. Then change at every 160hrs or yearly which ever comes first. Also change it if you swamp the bike, gotta get that contaminated oil out.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The break in point has already been done. I'm good there. I think it has like a little over 100 hours on it currently.

Any idea why they mentioned 320 hours in it too? Is that basically for people riding light?
 

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The owners manual could be a lot more clear on just when they want you to change the oil or do any maintenance.

I changed mine a 6 months, no idea of the miles or hours since Yamaha didn't provide a hour meter or a odometer.
I changed it the second time at 1 year
I now change it once a year no matter what the hours or miles on it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The owners manual could be a lot more clear on just when they want you to change the oil or do any maintenance.

I changed mine a 6 months, no idea of the miles or hours since Yamaha didn't provide a hour meter or a odometer.
I changed it the second time at 1 year
I now change it once a year no matter what the hours or miles on it.
Any smoke problems? I've heard the 708cc can be a hit or miss. So far mind is doing well.

As for oil, what kind do you use? The seller told me he doesn't use Yahama oil, and instead uses something from Walmart.
 

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On the smoke there was a problem with some 2016's with the top end. Mine has been fine.

I use Valvoline 4 stroke ATV 10w-40 that I get from O'Rileys, but I have a friend that works there so I get it at cost.

Some on here are using Shell Rotella 5w-40, you can get this from Walmart. What ever oil you use you need to make sure that it will work with the wet clutch that these machines have.. Both of the above do.
 

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Any smoke problems? I've heard the 708cc can be a hit or miss. So far mind is doing well.

As for oil, what kind do you use? The seller told me he doesn't use Yahama oil, and instead uses something from Walmart.
The oil MUST be wet clutch compatible.... If not, your risking damaging your wet clutch. The oil from Walmart may be fine, but your best checking that it is.
 
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For the oil specification look on the bottle in the area that is stared. It has to be SG type of higher.
 

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As for oil, as long as it states in the bottle jaso-ma or ma2, you're good. That's the spec for wet clutch.

I run shell Rotella t6 5w40 it is jaso ma/ma2
Same oil in 0w40 is not jaso ma rated so be sure to read the bottle.
I do believe that in the US Walmart, you can get Rotella t6 5w40

I wish Canadian Walmart had the same selection in the automotive department.

Do your changes minimum once a year and just stick to something easy to remember like say 100 or 150hr intervals.... You can't hurt anything but your wallet changing it more often. I would rather change it a bit more often and never worry, the few extra bucks you spend over the life of the bike are actually cheap insurance.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the insight, guys. I do have another inquiry pertaining to adjusting the shocks. According the video I've watched, you should never adjust your shocks fully, because that results in being problematic when one of the tires hits a hole. Currently all of mine are stretched to their max. Would you suggest changing the settings?
 

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You have 5 preload settings on your shocks, you can set it to any one of them without any worry of hurting your shocks. Adjust them as you see fit. Settings will not be the same for everyone, it will very depending on driver weight, and ride preference.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You have 5 preload settings on your shocks, you can set it to any one of them without any worry of hurting your shocks. Adjust them as you see fit. Settings will not be the same for everyone, it will very depending on driver weight, and ride preference.

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It was something about if they're set on maxed, your tires lose the ability to drop inside of a hole, aiding in keeping all four tires on the ground. I'm accustomed to straight axles, so I'm unsure how important this feat really is.
 

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Just adjust them to where you like to ride.

Trust me your tires will drop into that hole even on the max setting. They are designed to be used on any of the settings that they have. It's just that at the max you will get a rougher ride than you will at the lowest setting.
 

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Thanks for all the insight, guys. I do have another inquiry pertaining to adjusting the shocks. According the video I've watched, you should never adjust your shocks fully, because that results in being problematic when one of the tires hits a hole. Currently all of mine are stretched to their max. Would you suggest changing the settings?


It was something about if they're set on maxed, your tires lose the ability to drop inside of a hole, aiding in keeping all four tires on the ground.
Complete BS. Adjust where you are happy and ride on....
 
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I agree with everyone's responses to the shock settings, but will add all 4 should be set to the same position.
No, this is not entirely true.

They should be adjusted to compensate for weight. My shocks were set at 2 all the way around from assembly. I bumped them all up to 4 after noticing a very soft ride and occasionally bottoming out the rears on big bumps at speed due to my slim 300lb+ body & a rear cargo seat with probably 30lbs of necessities and food and beverages. At 4, my fronts don't squat enough going into a turn on gravel, causing excessive understeer. Dropped the fronts to 3 to soften then a bit and the understeer is almost completely gone. Now small bumps, rocks, and roots in the trail are almost completely unnoticeable as the front soaks then up much better where on 4 it was more of a firm thud.
With the rears on 3, it's just a bit too soft for my liking, and my weight, 4 seems to be perfect.

Side to side they need to be the same, front to rear not always.
Suspension needs to be played with to get it honed in perfect.



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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just to display the video in question.

5:47

But I'm glad that I read this forum, instead of going off that video.
 

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For your reading enjoyment - Shock PRELOAD Myths/facts.. Understanding

BTW, same person and some of what he is saying is correct. The part in the video about your sag seems a bit exaggerated and not completely accurate. Yes, some of your sag will be gone but the video made me want to think sag would be close to being non-existent.
 
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