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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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The shims will provide a slight gearing reduction. Helps offset larger tires. Kind of like going from a 3.55 to a 3.73 rear end for taking off.

A stiffer spring isn’t required, but it helps hold a lower gear longer. It also helps it back shift. Think of a stiffer spring like pressing “tow mode” on a truck.

If you want more performance, the weights make the biggest difference.

I put all 3 in at the same time. EPI Purple, 1.5mm shim, and 20-gram Grizzly weights. It runs about 1000rpm higher all the time, and dances when I tag it. My 27” Reptiles spin easily past 25mph now. There are stiffer springs and lighter weights available too, depending on your goals. What are you looking to do? What kind of riding? What size tire?
Some members on here know tons about this. Just sharing my experience.
 

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Thank y'all. I have other clutch questions too. Like,do I need a different spring?
Do you need a spring, no not necessarily.
As JD said what are your plans for the quad ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just plan on some 27" Zillas, mostly slower trail riding,occasional road blast to a trail.
Been reading and watching videos about the ultramatic. Helped me understand a lot.
I thank ya'll for the answers and info.
Just want a little more grunt off the line.
Would a 1mm shim and 20gram weights be a good combo?
 

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Just plan on some 27" Zillas, mostly slower trail riding,occasional road blast to a trail.
Been reading and watching videos about the ultramatic. Helped me understand a lot.
I thank ya'll for the answers and info.
Just want a little more grunt off the line.
Would a 1mm shim and 20gram weights be a good combo?
Absolutely. As long as your doing the shim mod I would suggest doing 1.5-1.7mm
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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I live in kinda hilly country, in the Carolinas. The stiffer spring has helped me on hill climbs, as it allows a downshift, or back shift, much easier. If I’m going up hill, I don’t have to gas it like crazy to go anymore. It naturally shifts and keeps the revs up.
If you are in flat terrain, I dont think the spring is as necessary.
There are 18 and 20 gram weights. The 18’s should really fly. I like the linear feel of the Kodiak, and did 20’s to start with
 

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Was also wondering how long the belt should last. And which one is better,or stick with oem.
I have about 1100 miles on mine. 600 of it from youngest riding in pasture.
Stick with Yamaha belt.. They are tough as hell and are known for lasting a LONG time. Some members on the grizzlycentral forum have 10 000 miles with them. Matter of fact Yamaha now have 10 year warranty on their belts.

 

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Just plan on some 27" Zillas, mostly slower trail riding,occasional road blast to a trail.
Been reading and watching videos about the ultramatic. Helped me understand a lot.
I thank ya'll for the answers and info.
Just want a little more grunt off the line.
Would a 1mm shim and 20gram weights be a good combo?
I've got the 27" Silas with no clutch mods. I haven't noticed any power loss.
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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The weights “expand” centrifugally from the rpm. Heavy weights go out easier than light weight. As the expand out, it changes your gearing. Switching to light weights means higher rpm for the same gear ratio, or more power.
The weights don’t really clamp anything. The spring provides all the clamping force. Are you worried about belt slippage?
 

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@tagjeep

Heavier weights will shift up to higher gears faster (sorta speak) and you will cruise at a lower rpm. (more overdrive)

Lighter weights take longer to shift up. It's like you stay in lower gears longer, witch multiplies engine torque longer. They will also Rev more when cruising.
 
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Thank you for explaining it to me.
I looked at the Yamaha parts diagram. Lots of different part numbers for weights. Which one is the 20g?
2007 to 2015 700 grizzlies used 20 gram weights. Pulled this part number from the 2014 700 Grizz
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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If you change weights out, you will need some fresh grease. Yamalube Ultramatic. But it’s basically not available anywhere because the world shutdown. Mine is still on back order for ~3 months. Alternate grease should be “high moly” stuff.
They recommended I try “Tink Seal” available from Hunter works. It’s expensive, but it seems to be working. When the Yamalube arrives, I will re-grease it all.
 

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If you change weights out, you will need some fresh grease. Yamalube Ultramatic. But it’s basically not available anywhere because the world shutdown. Mine is still on back order for ~3 months. Alternate grease should be “high moly” stuff.
They recommended I try “Tink Seal” available from Hunter works. It’s expensive, but it seems to be working. When the Yamalube arrives, I will re-grease it all.
Or just go greaseless. It's not really needed

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
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Or just go greaseless. It's not really needed

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I have heard that a few times. I suppose it works the same. Somewhere I read it might be a little noisier.
As an engineer, I’m sticking with grease. Noise = wear
 
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