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Yeah I should have said "more" with the quotations.

It's not exactly getting MORE air, as the opening of the intake snorkel can likely support the flow of more cfm than the motor could suck in... it's just getting its air easier. A motor being able to breathe easier will make more power, this is why the first modifications to motors are usually intake&exhaust related.

Another example.. on an old turbo'd subaru of mine.. i ran the stock intake for years. The stock intake wasn't a true bottleneck on those motors until the 400whp mark iirc, mine was only sitting around 275. However.. by removing the stock intake with all its snorkels and chambers and corrugated piping and replacing it with a nice smooth aluminum pipe.. it was able to be tuned and pick up hp. Easy air -> easy power.

I can absolutely guarantee that with the help of an AFR guage, the ehs lid would be proven to not be snake oil.
 

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2021 Kodiak 700-EPS, EHS tuner, airbox & lid, HMF Titan (Quiet) exhaust, Warn 2500 winch & 52" plow.
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Yup, I follow you completely. There's definitely the spectre of a "vapor lock" (for lack of a better phrase), particularly in largely enclosed systems like the OEM Airbox, where the oxygen demands of the motor's intake, can potentially exceed the momentary capacity of the Airbox, unless the box is vented somehow, and I think the EHS Lid eliminates that potential. Albeit minor, upon maximum throttle situations, there is the potential of a slight or momentary vacuum being created, especially when the AIS and/or crankcase vents have been plugged off or restricted. So again, to that extent, the EHS Lid would seem to address that potential issue.
 

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I can absolutely guarantee that with the help of an AFR guage, the ehs lid would be proven to not be snake oil.
I suppose this is where I can jump in. But I need to set the proper stage first. Yes I run an EHS bullet box tuner. Yes, I have the EHS air filter lid. Yes, I have blocked off the AIS to my air filter box. I do not have or need the lower air filter box modified since mine is the previous gen design. Oh, and I do run a Koso wideband AFR meter. My 2014 Grizzly 700 686cc OEM engine has all the same physical parts as all of the 2019+ Grizzly and Kodiak 700 engines. I believe the ECU is a different part number though.

Keep in mind, I live at 8000 feet and typically ride my Grizzly at elevations from 7000 - 12,500 feet. Lower oxygen levels are a real thing. Much of what I'm combating is not what the typical person will be faced with. I also need to say that I didn't do my homework properly on the bullet boxes before I bought it. I assumed the bullet boxes allowed for fuel management that would add or subtract fuel. I was wrong with that assumption as the bullet boxes only add fuel, they do not subtract fuel. That part is different from comparison to the FI tuner I had for my 2007 Grizzly 700 made by Dynatek. The previous tuner I had was the Dynatek FI Fuel Controller that had 3 potentiometers for setting fuel for throttle positions low, med and high. Those potentiometers allowed for adding or subtracting fuel from the OEM fuel settings.

With all of that out of the way, jump to my current setup running stock exhaust and only the EHS tuner and also my Koso wideband AFR meter. I was told that the standard "default" settings that came on the EHS tuner would be good for where I live. I found the default settings to be running way too rich. With the default settings, my AFR meter was showing around 10 at idle and low throttle, medium about 11 and then high 11 to 10. Optimally, I should see a proper burn ratio about 12.8 - 13.2 on the meter. So I immediately started making adjustments on the EHS tuner. I ended up turning off fueling at the low setting, having about 1-2 points at medium and I believe 1 point at high. Even at those settings, when I started getting up in elevation, I just don't run optimally at low and high. So I felt I'd give the EHS air box lid a try. Short of the story here is I see about a 1 point increase on the AFR meter for low, medium and high throttle positions when I put the EHS modified air box lid on my 2014 Grizzly 700, no other changes made to anything. I need to say that I feel pretty confident the EHS air box lid does allow more easy flowing air to reach my throttle body with proof showing on my AFR meter.

Now EHS does say that you should see reduced dust using the modified EHS lid. I don't see a big difference there in terms of the amount of dust on the air filter. Maybe slightly less but not enough a difference to pay the money for the lid in terms of dust reduction. I also don't tend to tread deep water, so no experience with water splashing onto the special opening in the lid. There is increased noise with the EHS lid because the throttle body is a bit more exposed.

Some reasoning behind why I chose to try the EHS modified lid... I also have (2) 2000W Champion Inverter generators (carbureted) and since they do not have replacement high altitude jets, they recommend drilling holes in the air filter box for high altitude applications. Additionally, a well known GrizzlyCentral member who also lives in CO, has drilled holes in his Grizzly air box and said it really seems to help.
 
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2021 Kodiak 700-EPS, EHS tuner, airbox & lid, HMF Titan (Quiet) exhaust, Warn 2500 winch & 52" plow.
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Wow! An excellent summary! Thanks Rocket. And it all makes perfect sense (pounds, shillings and pence!).

We've learned over the years, from world class boxers and other athletes, that at those kinds of elevations (10,000-12,000 feet!?!?), literally, all bets are off. Fortunately, I'm barely at 3500 feet here, and that's a huge difference.

Personally, I've already "bought the farm" in terms of the EHS lid, so I'm definitely going to install and evaluate it, and I certainly don't see it "hurting" anything. I will be plugging the crankcase vent at the box, and installing a 1/2" filter in the crankcase ventilation hose, so the added "venting" of the otherwise enclosed system certainly won't hurt. And, as I've done countless times over the years in similar air filter applications, I will be installing a porous, oil-treated, pot-scrubber pad for added protection, under the Outerwears screen, in between the rubber gasket and the metal frame on the EHS lid. I'm also adding a double sheet of circular, cut-out, Outerwears fabric to the bottom (box) end of the gooseneck intake tube, just to keep macro items (bugs, etc.), from entering the Airbox. Overkill? Yeah, perhaps to some, it is! But above all, clean, dry, and vented. No water vapor from recycled exhaust fumes (13-15% water via AIS), and no added oil vapor sweated from the crankcase.
 

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Wow! An excellent summary! Thanks Rocket. And it all makes perfect sense (pounds, shillings and pence!).

We've learned over the years, from world class boxers and other athletes, that at those kinds of elevations (10,000-12,000 feet!?!?), literally, all bets are off. Fortunately, I'm barely at 3500 feet here, and that's a huge difference.

Personally, I've already "bought the farm" in terms of the EHS lid, so I'm definitely going to install and evaluate it, and I certainly don't see it "hurting" anything. I will be plugging the crankcase vent at the box, and installing a 1/2" filter in the crankcase ventilation hose, so the added "venting" of the otherwise enclosed system certainly won't hurt. And, as I've done countless times over the years in similar air filter applications, I will be installing a porous, oil-treated, pot-scrubber pad for added protection, under the Outerwears screen, in between the rubber gasket and the metal frame on the EHS lid. I'm also adding a double sheet of circular, cut-out, Outerwears fabric to the bottom (box) end of the gooseneck intake tube, just to keep macro items (bugs, etc.), from entering the Airbox. Overkill? Yeah, perhaps to some, it is! But above all, clean, dry, and vented. No water vapor from recycled exhaust fumes (13-15% water via AIS), and no added oil vapor sweated from the crankcase.
I like that idea of putting outerwares fabric over the oem intake tube. I was just looking at mine over the weekend and the edge of the tube has dried muddy grass, a giant june bug crushed against it, a wasp carcass and remains of some other unidentified bug.... RIP bugs. Lol

You shouldn't be getting any water vapor or fumes in the air box from ais, that system draws from the box to the exhaust.
Funny as i noticed my ais hose was barely connected, no clamp nothing. I would say about 1/8" from falling and just hanging free. Also find a long stick wedged up between the plastic and my exhaust pipe, no idea how it got there, i don't even see a way it could get pushed in there, like theses no gap. It's amazing where ya can find debris on these bikes when you really look.

Forgot to ask, where did you get the outerwares fabric?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

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2021 Kodiak 700-EPS, EHS tuner, airbox & lid, HMF Titan (Quiet) exhaust, Warn 2500 winch & 52" plow.
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I like that idea of putting outerwares fabric over the oem intake tube. I was just looking at mine over the weekend and the edge of the tube has dried muddy grass, a giant june bug crushed against it, a wasp carcass and remains of some other unidentified bug.... RIP bugs. Lol

You shouldn't be getting any water vapor or fumes in the air box from ais, that system draws from the box to the exhaust.
Funny as i noticed my ais hose was barely connected, no clamp nothing. I would say about 1/8" from falling and just hanging free. Also find a long stick wedged up between the plastic and my exhaust pipe, no idea how it got there, i don't even see a way it could get pushed in there, like theses no gap. It's amazing where ya can find debris on these bikes when you really look.

Forgot to ask, where did you get the outerwares fabric?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Doh! You're perfectly right on the AIS/water thing. I completely misspoke on that one! Don't know what I was thinking there? The force of vacuum is clearly created by (and at) the exhaust, so the flow is headed uphill (away from the box, not towards it), and thus, I would agree that any water component in the exhaust would never reach the box.

As far as the Outerwears fabric goes, I picked up a swath of it on Amazon. Plain black (no logo), and it was in-fact a tad spendy ($20?), but it worked out great! I cut about a 4" square patch that tightened-up nice and taut, once the intake tube was twisted down around it. Plus, I've now got extra fabric to replace the Outerwears screen on the open EHS lid whenever I might need it. (y)

P.S. - Outerwears on Amazon, 12"x12" square sheet, $14+.
 

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Went to a local MX/off road park yesterday and got a little bit of riding in. Took the kodiak through its biggest slop hole yet, almost swamped it. Filled the cvt up with water.. took a couple minutes to drain lol.. looks like some disassembly and cleaning is in order! It was a good time. Going to a different off road park next weekend.


 

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Agreed! Bouncin' Black Betty is the real deal! Very cool! And I love the look of the same (or near same) width of tires on all 4 corners. Makes me wanna toss my 12" wide rears and go back to 10s.
 

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Agreed! Bouncin' Black Betty is the real deal! Very cool! And I love the look of the same (or near same) width of tires on all 4 corners. Makes me wanna toss my 12" wide rears and go back to 10s.
Thanks! It is indeed a square setup. 26X9X14
 

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Went to a terrain park. Didn't get much footage but I did get some of climbing up a rocky wash-out and my first real water wheelie with the 450. Fun stuff.
 
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Went to a terrain park. Didn't get much footage but I did get some of climbing up a rocky wash-out and my first real water wheelie with the 450. Fun stuff.
Don't know that I'd have the huevos to do it (too much clean-up afterwards!), but going through deeper water like that, has gotta be a blast! 😉
 

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Don't know that I'd have the huevos to do it (too much clean-up afterwards!), but going through deeper water like that, has gotta be a blast! 😉
The most fun you can have with your clothes on! 10-15 minutes with a pressure washer gets it cleaned up pretty well.

I do however take most of the plastics off a few times a year to give it a real deep cleaning, those are pretty tedious and take a couple hours.
 

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Kokopelli: Those pictures in your garage remind me of waiting in line for the Mr. Twister roller coaster at Elich Gardens when I was a kid. Once you got on the platform they didn't have any railings or anything. It was just a deck and the edge was painted yellow. The teenager working the microphone kept repeating "Stay behind the yellow line. Please stay behind the yellow line."

Blnpkn: That water wheelie did look really fun.

Here's what I did today. I changed my oil with Rotella T6 and a Wix 51365xp filter but the filter would not seal properly. I checked the rubber ring and compared it to the Yamaha filter and they matched up. I wet the rubber seal with oil. When I tightened the filter it would lock up as soon as the rubber touched. I couldn't tighten it any more. Normally I tighten a filter about a half to 3/4 of a turn past first touch. I really don't know what the problem was but I didn't have access to another new filter so I reinstalled the old one. It sealed up fine like expected. The oil I replaced was really clean so I'm not too worried about the old filter.

The other thing I did was change the rear shock settings to the softest point. I had them two notches above the softest. The ride is so much better now. It rides like a Cadillac. I had it stronger before because where I was riding there were a bunch of whoops made by the MX bikes and I could jump off them a little bit. This made the ATV bottom out occasionally so I kicked them up a notch. For regular riding though the soft springs are great. It's also a lot easier to pull a wheelie when the springs are softer. I rolled up over a little hill and leaned back and flicked the throttle thinking I was going to pull the front up a foot or two but it actually almost stood straight up. I barely got off the throttle in time to come back down. I saw some videos of people doing big wheelies with their Kodiaks but I could never do it. Now I know how, uh oh.
 

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Kokopelli: Those pictures in your garage remind me of waiting in line for the Mr. Twister roller coaster at Elich Gardens when I was a kid. Once you got on the platform they didn't have any railings or anything. It was just a deck and the edge was painted yellow. The teenager working the microphone kept repeating "Stay behind the yellow line. Please stay behind the yellow line."

Blnpkn: That water wheelie did look really fun.

Here's what I did today. I changed my oil with Rotella T6 and a Wix 51365xp filter but the filter would not seal properly. I checked the rubber ring and compared it to the Yamaha filter and they matched up. I wet the rubber seal with oil. When I tightened the filter it would lock up as soon as the rubber touched. I couldn't tighten it any more. Normally I tighten a filter about a half to 3/4 of a turn past first touch. I really don't know what the problem was but I didn't have access to another new filter so I reinstalled the old one. It sealed up fine like expected. The oil I replaced was really clean so I'm not too worried about the old filter.

The other thing I did was change the rear shock settings to the softest point. I had them two notches above the softest. The ride is so much better now. It rides like a Cadillac. I had it stronger before because where I was riding there were a bunch of whoops made by the MX bikes and I could jump off them a little bit. This made the ATV bottom out occasionally so I kicked them up a notch. For regular riding though the soft springs are great. It's also a lot easier to pull a wheelie when the springs are softer. I rolled up over a little hill and leaned back and flicked the throttle thinking I was going to pull the front up a foot or two but it actually almost stood straight up. I barely got off the throttle in time to come back down. I saw some videos of people doing big wheelies with their Kodiaks but I could never do it. Now I know how, uh oh.
Almost sounds like the filter threads weren't cut all the way. I've never had that problem with a Wix filter, but years ago, i used to get fram filters all the time with messed up threads, or no threads at all.
I use the 51365xp on my bike, it definitely fits and doesn't leak or bottom out.

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. . . The other thing I did was change the rear shock settings to the softest point. I had them two notches above the softest. The ride is so much better now.
Funny you should mention "shocks". Of all the mechanical stuff I've done on our new Kodiak, including some reasonably major installations, the one thing that has given me the most hassle, has been the silly shock adjustment. Seems like it should be simple right? Not! At least not on mine!

After completing my combined winch and plow installation, the front-end dipped down a fair bit (as much as a full inch), from the added 140+ pounds of weight, when the plow blade was actually lifted. So I thought it might be best to stiffen-up the front shocks from their softer factory setting. In addition, with these radial tires and their softer sidewalls, it acts a little bit soggy on some roadway turns. So again, I thought stiffening those two front springs a little bit, wouldn't hurt that particular behavior either.

Initially, I didn't wanna use channel-lock pliers for fear of scarring the metal on the shocks, so I bought the cheesey $7 Yamaha spanner wrench, but it proved to be nothing but a soft, aluminum piece of junk, and slipped right off of the shock adjustment ring. So I then bought a pair of hardened steel spanner wrenches specifically intended for ATVs from JEGs, but they were both too wide for the shock rings on the Kodiak.

With no other viable options, I guess I'm now gonna have to resort back to channel-locks, but one thing is for-sure . . . those two buggers are BEYOND tight!!! I even went to the trouble of jacking the front end up, to lessen the pressure on both coil springs, thinking that doing so would make it easier, and still, they're MEGA stubborn. Deeply 'phhh-rus-trating'. :cautious:
 

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I didn't think the Wix filter was wrong or I had the wrong part number because enough people on this forum have mentioned using it. I'll try and look at the threads to see if I can identify anything.

I used channel locks to adjust my springs. You can try spraying some lubricant on it to see if that helps. Also there's not much to grip onto so it's possible you were gripping the shock itself which is why it wouldn't turn.
 
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