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Trail Tech Endurance II installation on 2016 Kodiak 700

5822 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  JimP
Hey-Just wondering if anyone has tried to add this digital speedometer to their atv yet, and what were the results.
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Hey-Just wondering if anyone has tried to add this digital speedometer to their atv yet, and what were the results.
Read this thread:
http://www.kodiakowners.com/forum/106-yamaha-kodiak-700-general-discussion/2593-digital-gauges.html

They're similar , slight variations on extra features like either RPM or voltage or engine temp sensor.
at low speeds, under 5MPH the readout of the speedometer is a little jumpy but the odometer feature is important and the hour-meter if you want to keep a scheduled maintenance going.
I have the striker model with the volt meter and temp gauge. It seems to do a pretty good job on the read-outs.The speed sensor works with magnets. I was afraid of stripping the bolt head on the backing plate bolt to replace it with the magnetic one because they are put on really tight.I glued the magnet on instead with 3m marine white glue which is super sticky and completely waterproof. There are a couple of different ways to calculate your speed into the unit shown in the manual.If you have the base model like I do, I would recommend at least one that has a temp gauge.For peace of mind, I purposely left a little antifreeze out of the system when I into spliced into the radiator hose to put the sensor in to see how sensitive both the idiot light and the striker sensor were.They both worked well before the motor got too hot.
This is not a do it yourself project unless you have an Ingersoll Rand pneumatic air hammer and 120# of air. To remove the front axle nut (to gain acess to the rotor, to install magnetic bolt and drill hole in rotor guard for sensor installation) you need to overcome 190# of factory set axle nut torque. Good luck with that without an air wrench handy its **** near impossible. If you do get it off the magnetic rotor plate bolt they supply is as brittle as glass, anything over 10# of torque will rip the head off, which by the way is not a recessed bolt like the factory rotor plate bolts are. This leaves very little clearance between the bolt and brake caliper so it is real prone to break off from mud, sticks and debris. 2 out of 5 stars. Easy install my ***!
This is not a do it yourself project unless you have an Ingersoll Rand pneumatic air hammer and 120# of air. To remove the front axle nut (to gain acess to the rotor, to install magnetic bolt and drill hole in rotor guard for sensor installation) you need to overcome 190# of factory set axle nut torque. Good luck with that without an air wrench handy its **** near impossible. If you do get it off the magnetic rotor plate bolt they supply is as brittle as glass, anything over 10# of torque will rip the head off, which by the way is not a recessed bolt like the factory rotor plate bolts are. This leaves very little clearance between the bolt and brake caliper so it is real prone to break off from mud, sticks and debris. 2 out of 5 stars. Easy install my ***!
Hey... 3209... You don't have to remove front axle nut . It takes a little wiggle but you can use the predrilled holes in the rotor shield to install your sensor . Also I was able to remove one of the rotor bolts and install the magnetic head bolt thru the holes in the rotor shield. I'm not saying that it's a very straightforward install but I knew that when I got the kit. I installed it on the front right rotor shield and I was able to find one of the predrilled holes in the shield that was lining up perfectly with a bolt on the rotor. That's the one I used, no need to drill another hole.
I'm just throwing this up here as an alternative for other members who would like to install it on their bikes, not to contest your experience with the install.
im with you it was pretty easy to install on front rotor and plate.I didnt hook up heat sensor because there is a light on the dash and worried about that tee pulling loose.
I installed the heat sensor on mine and it took all of 5 minutes to do with very little coolant loss. I wouldn't worry about a hose clamp coming off.
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