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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So not to start another tire thread but here is my question... I installed OEM overfenders on my 2016 Kodiak (just wanted the extra width) , 1" Super ATV wheel spacers and have the high lifter 2" lift installed, but now my still factory tires look really wimpy. I do want to upgrade but am not sure how to remedy the problem. Will the 26x9-12 26x11-12 fill the wheels wells better (hight and width) or should I also add wheels with a 4+3 offset to bring them out farther? I'm so torn on what to do. Had anyone else ran into this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your answer is simple.... New tires, 26" or 27"

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Thank you. That's what I was hoping. I know I've read that the +1 sizing made a difference but wasn't sure how much over factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I too have the overfenders and 1” wheel spacers and I have the exact tire sizes you listed with Maxxis Zillas. I think they look great with this setup
Do yo!I also have the lift? That's why I did the spacers was to compensate for loss of width when the control arms dropped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your answer is simple.... New tires, 26" or 27"

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I was watching your video with the Tusk Mud Force tires earlier. Are you still running them and are you happy with them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote
Do yo!I also have the lift? That's why I did the spacers was to compensate for loss of width when the control arms dropped.“

No. That would be the only difference from yours, so you may want to consider 27” tires.
That looks nice. The tires definitely come out farther. Factory ones I don't think are really 8/10 wide. They seem to measure small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally made my decision this morning and ordered the Kenda Bear Claw HTR in 27x9/27x11. Reviews seem good including on here and Grizzly central. Thanks for the help to all who commented. I will post before and after pics when they get installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
27" Bear Claw HTR's finally mounted up! They definitely fill the wheel wells up. Here is a before and after. I have more pics if anybody wants to see them.
9750
9751
 

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Very nice!

If you feel you lost too much bottom end do the shim mod 1 or 1.5 mm, and / or the purple EPI spring. More low end grunt for under 50$
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Very nice!

If you feel you lost too much bottom end do the shim mod 1 or 1.5 mm, and / or the purple EPI spring. More low end grunt for under 50$
Thanks for the heads up. I'm hoping to get a trail ride in here within the next week. so far I noticed a lag in 4x4 high gear (not that it will ever be used like that) but other than that not bad even with my 100lb son on with me. the htr's are fairly light at 25/31 lbs front and rear even in the 27x9/27x11-12. Did you have to do clutch work with your Growlers?
 

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Thanks for the heads up. I'm hoping to get a trail ride in here within the next week. so far I noticed a lag in 4x4 high gear (not that it will ever be used like that) but other than that not bad even with my 100lb son on with me. the htr's are fairly light at 25/31 lbs front and rear even in the 27x9/27x11-12. Did you have to do clutch work with your Growlers?
I did alot of clutch work! Coop45 machined sheave, +0.5mm shim, Epi Orange spring, and 18 gram weights ( stock were 16g on my 550 Grizz)

I've racked up 5000 hard riden trouble free miles on this set up.

-Stock cvt initial ratio is 2.45:1
-1.5mm of shims with give you about 2:75
- Coop45 machined sheave with 0.5 mm shim yield an awesome 3.1:1 ratio. 27% Lower then stock!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did alot of clutch work! Coop45 machined sheave, +0.5mm shim, Epi Orange spring, and 18 gram weights ( stock were 16g on my 550 Grizz)

I've racked up 5000 hard riden trouble free miles on this set up.

-Stock cvt initial ratio is 2.45:1
-1.5mm of shims with give you about 2:75
- Coop45 machined sheave with 0.5 mm shim yield an awesome 3.1:1 ratio. 27% Lower then stock!
Wow, that's more than I wanted to do. Not that I'm not willing, just didn't want to. I guess if it needs it, start with the shim and go from there? Or jump right into shim and spring?
 

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Wow, that's more than I wanted to do. Not that I'm not willing, just didn't want to. I guess if it needs it, start with the shim and go from there? Or jump right into shim and spring?
Lol! No need to go wild right off the bat. I would start with 1.5 mm of shims and go from there. Heck that what I started with in the beginning and I was amazed how much it help my little 550.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks again!
 

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Thanks again!
Adding shims does the exact same thing as putting a bigger rear sprocket on a dirt bike, or putting lower diff gears on a lifted truck with big tires....

You increased your Tire diameter, and now we ll gear you down to compensate / recreat your stock torque multiplication.

It's an amazing mod for 5$!
 
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