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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My 2016 Kodiak 700 recently started to turn over slowly and then not at all. I just replaced the battery less than two years ago, but figured it went out again, so bought another one, and that isn't the problem. It will turn over strong when I use a charger connected to an outlet, and start up, and the machine runs fine, but it will then not start up again, struggles to turn over after I shut it off.

Maybe the starter motor is going?

I have had the problem where it doesn't like to start in colder temps (takes a couple tries), but I got the part replaced via the recall/warranty few years ago, can't remember the part...

Engine light comes on now. I am out of warranty now, had the extended until last year, obviously...

Thanks for all your help,

Chris
 

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If a simple boost works to make it start, then the issue is likely the battery. Please describe you actions when you say " It will turn over strong when I use a charger connected to an outlet " Also describe what happens when you try to start it, without any thing attached to the battery. Is the starter clicking or is it dead, or what?
 

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I would remove and clean all battery terminals, chassis ground and starter terminals as a first step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If a simple boost works to make it start, then the issue is likely the battery. Please describe you actions when you say " It will turn over strong when I use a charger connected to an outlet " Also describe what happens when you try to start it, without any thing attached to the battery. Is the starter clicking or is it dead, or what?
Hi and thanks, I have a starter/charger, that plugs into an outlet, and then I use that in start-up mode (80A), the starter motor turns over easy, and it starts up. When I use just the battery (even the new one), it doesn't turn over. It starts to, not strong enough to start, but then next few tries, nothing...

I will check all the connections on the starter, grounds, etc... Haven't done that yet, from other post suggestion...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would remove and clean all battery terminals, chassis ground and starter terminals as a first step.
I have a new battery, and the connections were very clean, I will check starter connections and chassis ground. Do you know where the chassis grounds are located?
 

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A simple jump start right at the battery will tell you if you have ground or wiring issues, if it starts fine, the issue goes back to the battery, because that uses the same connections as the battery. You must be sure to ground on the battery and hook the positive on the battery also. If the booster battery starts better when it is connected to the frame then the issue might be the ground. I can't say if your current booster system bypasses the electrical connections on the machine, but that is an interesting question.
 

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Grizzled Mod
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Previous year Grizzly, the chassis ground was on the left front part of the frame, visible from within the front left wheel well. I'm not certain if the new models are the same but I would check there first. Either that, or trace the OEM battery ground wire to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A simple jump start right at the battery will tell you if you have ground or wiring issues, if it starts fine, the issue goes back to the battery, because that uses the same connections as the battery. You must be sure to ground on the battery and hook the positive on the battery also. If the booster battery starts better when it is connected to the frame then the issue might be the ground. I can't say if your current booster system bypasses the electrical connections on the machine, but that is an interesting question.
Thanks, I connected the jump start on the battery, not the chassis, so it seems the battery is not strong, but I just bought a new one, and it would be very odd if both my old and new battery was bad. Could happen though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Previous year Grizzly, the chassis ground was on the left front part of the frame, visible from within the front left wheel well. I'm not certain if the new models are the same but I would check there first. Either that, or trace the OEM battery ground wire to the frame.
Thanks
 

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You can also put a charger onto the battery and make sure that it has a full charge

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi,

Now it will not start at all, even with Jump start, I think the starter was on its last leg... I checked battery and chassis connections, they seem fine. Need to check the starter connections still...
 

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I have heard of more problems with the starter on these machines than just about anything else.

I hope that it was just a bad batch of them since I have a 2016 also.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi All,

I have heard enough about the starter, that I am going to replace it, and will let you all know. It is not a super expensive part.

Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It is interesting that on Amazon for the part I bought, manyof the reviews were from Kodiak 2016 owners... Ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does anybody have any tips for replacing the starter motor without having to disassemble all the body panels? I read on one of the Amazon reviews they were able to go through the air filter area under the seat without too much extra effort, but getting the air filter housing off without taking off panels is really difficult, I have just tinkered around a bit on it...
 

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OK with what you are saying now I do think you are on the right track with a new starter. I went through the exact scenario as you and the starter was the problem on my 16 Kodiak 700. I did have some unusual signs and noises with that starter, and it did fail slowly, just like you describe, it would usually go with a jump start, but that failed to start it eventually. Good luck and that idea of going through the air filter is a big concerning. Disconnect the battery before you start working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi all,

Starter is coming in this Friday, any experience with changing that out? How much of the quad do you need to disassemble to get to it?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi all,

Update: Not shcking, but I switched out the starter motor, and wahlah, it has never started up that easy, even when it was brand new... It always took a couple tries, now I barely hit the button and it is on, ready to run... Wished I did that when I first bought it, ha!

What may be news, is that I was able to do it going through the air filter area. I had to remove the top and two side panels, then the air filter box, was pretty easy after that getting to the starter motor.
 

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The problem with these starters for the 708 engine is that the magnets in the motor house are "glued". They come loose often one by one and the torque for the starter is decreasing. Then suddeny a lot of them come loose, and the motor is not turning at all. In some cases the rotor seen to have grinded up the magnets in pieces and it is a true mess inside the starter.
I am not sure if the later delivered has better quality, mine broke down after 2 years and 130 Hous.

9985
 
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