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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody!

Shifting gears seems to be tricky sometimes - at least to me. Now I'm used to it by my tractor, but this is an automatic - my first one, not only my first atv :grin2:
So the thing is, the gears seem to be stuck sometimes, and to be able to shift them, I have to move the machine either by shaking it or by accelerating...

I just brought it to the dealer for its first service. The mechanic said to me that this was normal and machines likes these hadn't the precision as motor bikes... I remember somebody saying something similar about a slightly cheaper brand of atv... 'not the precision'...
Now - normal or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sometimes mine is hard to shift if its on an incline cause the tranny might be under tension i dont know.
I heard a mechanic in another forum say that this was to expect, but in my case it's not on inclines, just when I stop the engine.
When for example I want to start it and it's still in L/ H, then I want to shift to N as advised by Yamaha. By using then the foot brake AND the brake lever on the handle bar, you can start the engine while in L, H or R, and then with the motor running, I suddenly might be able to shift again... Shaking the machine, hopping on it, does the trick, too.

I find the brake has to be on. The foot brake, or it is very hard to shift. It had gotten a little better as it gets used more 125 miles so far it was good today. Or i just got used to putting on the foot brake.
Shouldn't be like that? The (right of course) brake lever should be enough - except when starting the engin in L, H or R?
Normally I use the foot brake, and when it's stuck, in the beginning I used both brakes - pushing it as far as possible of course -, but that didn't help either! So I guess it's not not using the foot brake or not using it correctly.
 

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The foot brake and the LEFT lever are both actuating the same rear brakes and shifter interlock cables.You only need to press or pull one of them , not both . If the shifter interlock cable is properly adjusted then it should be easy to shift at any time.
That being said I also have sometimes difficulties shifting , mostly when parked or stopped on an incline or when the engine is not running.
That is normal for all of the auto transmissions out there, that's why you should put the parking brake on before you put the lever in park. On the Kodiak there is no parking brake, so we have to deal with this...
This IS a newbie question!: can it be that sometimes the gears are sort of stuck and that one has to sort of double-clutch to be able to shift?
There is no manual clutch , so there is no way you can "double clutch" a Kodiak. And yes,you guessed right, the gears are under load from the wheels and that's why is hard to shift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx @VladTepes and @ all for your explanations! I needed somebody else to confirm what my mechanic said - as he works for my dealer, I don't necessarily trust him :wink2:

BTW: I called it "sort of double-clutch" because accelerating a bit more does the trick as it does it with my tractor. Ok, I just know that there is a difference, but technically I have no clue what is going on (the German meaning of 'to double-clutch' is 'accelerating a bit before shifting'...) :D




The (right of course) brake lever should be enough - except when starting the engin in L, H or R?
I take back everything: it's of course the left lever.
And it's either not - as I thought - that both the pedal and the lever need to be applied to be able to start the engin when in L,H or R. (I honestly thought this might be another safety measure...)
At least it didn't do any harm applying the right lever together with the pedal when starting the engine in L,H or R :rolleyes:

But why on earth is the right lever automatically actuated (not fully and with a clicking sound) when the brake pedal only (!) is applied??

I know now that the right lever applies front AND rear break. It's a little confusing because in the manual it clearly is not mentioned:
Front brake lever
The front brake lever is located on the right han-
dlebar. To apply the front brake, pull the brake le-
ver toward the handlebar grip.

Brake pedal and rear brake lever
The brake pedal is located on the right side of the
ATV and the rear brake lever is located on the left
handlebar. To apply the rear brake, push down on
the brake pedal or pull the brake lever toward the
handlebar grip.
I discover more and more things that are (or aren't) on my Kodiak, but not even mentioned in any available manual (just checked the German website: there isn't even a manual in German...). Like a button on the left side which I suppose is there to cut off the engin in case of emergency (which doesn't work btw - probably because my dealer removed the electronical 'reduction' (?) of the motor)... Or the 'override button', which is not there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ok guys, I promise I will stop talking about my atv, from now on I will just ride it - at least this is what works for me: I manage to shift and I managed until now to stop the machine every time when needed... So why understand anything? :grin2:
This time yet I allowed myself to check it out myself, so I found out the whole truth about the breaking system of the Kodiak. Heureka, it's the break pedal that applies both front and rear break (and the clicking is just the hydraulic being applied...) :surprise::rolleyes: @corey thx for mentionning that the rear breaks are not hydraulic...
So the only thing I seem to be right is that it is not mentioned in any manual what the break pedal really does... Does yours in the US work the same way?
 

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2021 Yamaha Kodiak 700 EPS SE with full Ricochet 10 piece skid plates, warn vr-x 25 winch.
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So random question, should they ever "click" into gear? on my uncles Kodiak 450's, they both click in while my 700 clicks in rather quietly unless someone else is riding it?
 
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