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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, I’m new to the forum and just picked up a 2018 700 EPS SE. I love the quad, the only thing I have to change is the clutching. It’s geared to high even climbing the ramps into the bed of my truck I have to use low gear. It’s take off is very sluggish. I know it comes with 30’s stock and the Griz comes with 18’s. I’m running the stock tires but can’t decide to go with 20’s or 22’s for a little more take off grunt. Can any of you that have played with the different weights let me know what’s worked best for you?

Thanks
 

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First I'm sorry for blasting you with so much information all at once...but you asked! Lol!


I spoke with James at JBS Performance about the same thing.
The guy has the best engineered sheave and combines that with Dr Pulley OD weights and secondary springs made just for him by Eibach ( I went with the purple one) plus he provides the wet clutch slug kit from the guy who came up with the idea.
You end up with the best of all worlds...great takeoff, quicker throttle, and more top speed.
The wet slug kit is easy to do while your in there, and it engages the clutch much quicker which keeps it living longer, reduces wear and tear on it, and keeps the oil cleaner.

I also added a HMF Titan quiet series muffler which has a better tone than stock and it is louder than stock but it's not obnoxious. I also added a Power Commander 5 (PVC) from him and he installed a tune from a dyno he uses.
I got done installing all the goodies last night so I haven't tested it all out yet.
The stock weights were 30g each and the Dr pulley weights I went with are 17g.
Use only Yamaha Ultramatic and Yamaha Polyurea grease...he has those too!
Check his videos out on youtube ,but pay attention to the latest sheave grease video as the poly goes inside the circular hole of the sheave.



The stock air filter is the worst design I've ever seen.
I went with the Uni air filter mod by a different company... EHS Racing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response bud, but I have no interest in doing all that modifying. I’m just looking for a little better take off bite and I’m adding 26” tires too so the 30’s will definitely be too much then. I think I’m just gonna order some 20’s or 22’s and do the 1mm shim.
 

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That's cool!
I tend to go a bit further on my bikes than most.
Just got back from my first romp through the woods, and it was worth it.
 

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I did 20g weights orange epic spring and a uni air filter and it’s a whole different quad. Absolutely recommend the clutch weights. Oh and I have a 2018 700 eps se
 

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18's will improve torque immediately. You will notice the difference loading and especially acceleration from a stop. I can't imagine the 30 oz. weight is good for any other reason than doing yard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I installed 26” Kenda Bearclaw HTR’s today (which are actually 27” tall) and did a 1mm shim and installed EPI 18 gr weights. Only problem is EPI sent me weights without covers and it wasn’t til I had the whole thing back together that I realized I needed them. Anyway it runs great and has way more torque even with the bigger heavier tires but now I have to wait til I get covers for the friggin weights and tear the whole thing back apart to ride it! Does anyone know if it’s ok to just ride it for a day with the coverless weights?
 

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Hello guys, I’m new to the forum and just picked up a 2018 700 EPS SE. I love the quad, the only thing I have to change is the clutching. It’s geared to high even climbing the ramps into the bed of my truck I have to use low gear. It’s take off is very sluggish. I know it comes with 30’s stock and the Griz comes with 18’s. I’m running the stock tires but can’t decide to go with 20’s or 22’s for a little more take off grunt. Can any of you that have played with the different weights let me know what’s worked best for you?

Thanks
Changing your weights will not give you more torque at very low speeds, (like climbing your ramps to load your machine into the bed of your truck.)Only shims of machined sheaves will improve initial torque multiplication. Once your moving along though the heavier stock 30 g weights start ramping up ( shifting up) and at that point lighter weights will certainly make a big difference in performance over the stock weights.

That's why people add shims to their primary sheaves as a cheap and simple way to help improve the initial torque out of their machines from a dead stop. I started with 1.5mm shim, later on changed my secondary spring and eventually moved on again to the fancier Coop45 machined sheave in my Grizzly for maximum initial torque . My bike now starts at 25% lower gearing in high and low range. Made a Big difference over stock. HTH
 

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I’ve ridden over 500 miles with no covers on my weights. From what I looked up they make it a little quieter and add a gram or two to each weight. I have not had any issues and I beat the **** out of my kodiak every time I ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I finally got everything together with the right parts. 18 gr OEM Grizzly weighs and a 1mm shim. The bike is a completely different animal but I’m not really sure I like it. It starts and stays in higher rpm almost all the time. It has crazy acceleration and I can break the rear tires loose at almost any speed by romping on it. But for slow cruising on rough roads it’s gonna burn a heck of a lot more fuel and much noisier than the stock set up was. Might look at some 20’s or 22’s to get some of the quiet slow cruising speed back.

Yaaker it is noisey, was noisey new and noisey now, these Yamaha CVT’s make a racket.
 

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Well I finally got everything together with the right parts. 18 gr OEM Grizzly weighs and a 1mm shim. The bike is a completely different animal but I’m not really sure I like it. It starts and stays in higher rpm almost all the time. It has crazy acceleration and I can break the rear tires loose at almost any speed by romping on it. But for slow cruising on rough roads it’s gonna burn a heck of a lot more fuel and much noisier than the stock set up was. Might look at some 20’s or 22’s to get some of the quiet slow cruising speed back.

Yaaker it is noisey, was noisey new and noisey now, these Yamaha CVT’s make a racket.
Experience the samething when I installed the Orange EPI secondary spring in my 550 Grizzly. Already had the 1.5mm shim at the time. Bike gain crazy torque down low because the stiffer spring keeped me in a lower CVT ratio much longer. But it reved way more just cruising around. Shortly after that I switched my stock 16g weights for eight 18 gram Yamaha weights, and then I had an awesome balance of Low end torque without annoyingly high revs while cruising.

Clutch tuning is simply not a one size fits all affair. Also sometimes takes a second try to get things dialled in right.
 

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I felt the exact same thing the get up and go was so intense at first I didn’t like it and thought I lost top end speed. Super noisy but you get used to it. I will take my Kodiak anywhere now tho with the added pick up.
 

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I have a 18 kodiak 450 just bought 27 reptiles what would you recommend for a clutch set up shim size spring color and size of weights it does get in the mud but not to much mostly trail riding wanted more clearance
 

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I’m not sure how much you can shim out yours, 1 to 1.5 mm of shims ? just make sure you have splines showing on the shaft. There’s also a more expensive option of a machined sheave where you get the best of everything increased low end with no top end loss . And then you can add a secondary spring, I installed blue epi springs in our 01-400 and 04 450 kodiaks with 1mm of shim, but I also stayed with 25 inch tires, so running 27’s you may want to run a orange depending on you’re weight and the weight you may carry on your quad .
 

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Its my kids wheeler he's about 180 lbs so i will run a orange spring for the 27s should i change out weights what do they do to the sheave i have access to a machine shop do they turn it down ? Im new to the clutching world
 

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Its my kids wheeler he's about 180 lbs so i will run a orange spring for the 27s should i change out weights what do they do to the sheave i have access to a machine shop do they turn it down ? Im new to the clutching world
Coop 45 machines the face of the sheave basically giving 2 mm worth of shims. other machine the roller channels so the rollers sit deeper in the cvt . Google yamaha cvt mods you’ll find days of reading . Myself I wouldn’t change the weights shimming and secondary spring change will give you a nice boost in the low end . Here’s a good link to get ya going .
 

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Stock vs coop machined sheave
That's about a 3 mm cut at the seal hump witch gradually tapers off to nothing by the outer edge. This mod provides 25% more torque multiplication from a dead stop with zero top speed loss
 

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I’ve ridden over 500 miles with no covers on my weights. From what I looked up they make it a little quieter and add a gram or two to each weight. I have not had any issues and I beat the **** out of my kodiak every time I ride.
A warning to others. Running your weights without their plastic covers will damage your cam plate, movable sheave channels and your weights
 

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There's a good thread on the grizzly forum about the new 450 clutches. The thread is called "first look new 450 clutches" or something there abouts. youll be able fit 1.5mm of shim.

As for a spring, you may not need it. You really only need a stiffer spring if the belt is slipping. I'm around 220 lbs, and my fiance who's usually riding on the back is around 140? Then add in extra gas, drinks, straps, shackles and snacks theres probably 400 lbs on the machine when we go riding.. and I havnt FELT any belt slip with my 28" tall 35lb a piece mega mayhems.
 
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