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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a set of KC HiLites 3" C3 Light pods for my birthday, Plan on installing these bad boys on my front rack. My Question is do any of you folks have any experience wiring 2 pods up front?

My plan or thought process is this, I don't want the lights tied into anything really, I just want to activate them separate from my other lights.

I plan on running my toggle switch into the port/bay where my power port is next to the key.

any suggestions? How much of my Kodiak do i have to take apart to install these lol..

Base Kodiak.
 

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Grizzled Mod
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Your plan for wiring the pods should work fine. I believe that ACC plug is rated for 10 Amps, just make sure you do not exceed 10 Amps for everything running off of that ACC plug/wire. Also, when you are obviously adding wiring, I highly suggest using plastic wire loom. That will help avoid having the new wiring chafe somewhere because of vibration.

BTW, seems most sellers of LED lighting these days do not appropriately list actual Amp draw. You may want to see if someone, who has also purchased those same Pods, lists what the actual Amp draw is. You will probably find that those Pods will only draw around 1-3 Amps per pod max, but it is up to you to know for sure and not overdrive your wiring.

For wiring my LED pods and other accessories, I actually installed a fuse block in my Grizzly. The fuse block is switched on by way of a relay that gets turned on using the ACC wire and then pulls direct current from the battery as I have a few aftermarket electrical items installed and didn't want to exceed the 10 Amps on the ACC wire. If you are only planning on installing the LED pods, you are probably OK just directly using the ACC wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello sir,

I would be interested in the fuse block and what you have and how you did it, I am not electrical savvy. and if it will help with multiple accessories that would be great.

I Plan on also adding the following and I may just take it all on at once honestly.

I will be adding a Trail Tech Striker speedometer to my Kodiak as well as 2 reverse light pods I hope to plan on tying into reverse.

The C3 Series Specs are as followed so I am good on the AMPs

LIGHT PERFORMANCE(PER LIGHT)
-Raw Lumens: 1,080 lm
-Lux @ 10 Meters: Spot- 390 lx, Flood- 55 lx, Amber- 120 lx,
-Candela: Spot- 39,000 cd, Flood- 5,500 cd, Amber- 12,000 cd
-Beam Distance (meters): Spot- 395m, Flood- 148m, Amber- 219m

SPECIFICATIONS(PER LIGHT)
-Wattage: 12W
-LED Source: Osram LED
-Color Temperature: 6000K
-Amp Draw: 1.0A
-Voltage: 9V-32V
-IP Rating: IP67
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also,

The on/off toggle switch is illuminated, is it possible to wire that in so It is only illuminated when I power on the Kodiak?
 

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In my book anything extra wired into the electrical system should be fused and go through a relay, even low amperage items. Automotive parts stores sell nice relays that have a tab on them that can then be bolted into a spot near the battery. Also if you plan it right you will only have one power lead wired directly to the battery that can power a number of relays.

If you have never worked with relays before or wonder how to wire them they are quite simple. Naturally then need a ground. Then the triggering source, this can come from a switch or your lights. I like to use a key on power source so that when the Kodiak is off so is the items that you are powering. This will take care of turning the relay on and off. Then for the lights or whatever else yo want to power up you can come from the battery through a fuse to a contact on the relay. Then to the accessory that needs power. Most of the relays that I have see have a simple wiring diagram on them or in the package to show you what you need to do.

If you come from something that is powered on the Kodiak you may over draw the amperage rating for the wire or the fuse, but coming from the power port you should have no problem with that.

Nags, the Trail Tech speedometer is not fused on it's power wire, so you might want to consider placing a fuse on it. When I did mine all I could find was a heavy duty fuse holder and it looks a little bit odd going to the very light gauge wire on the TT speedometer. I sent a email to TT asking them to perhaps incorporating a fuse or a larger gauge wire for their power wire but I doubt that they listened.

To do what you want to only have power when the key is on you need to find a key on power source and tap into it. Then if you follow my above directions you can use that key on power source to power the relay to turn on the lights.
 

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Grizzled Mod
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I would be interested in the fuse block and what you have and how you did it
This link gives you the info you need to properly wire up a fuse block that is switched on via a relay: Wiring Up a Fuse Block

The on/off toggle switch is illuminated, is it possible to wire that in so It is only illuminated when I power on the Kodiak?
Yes, if you pull the + connection from the fuse block (or relay if not using a fuse block) it will be a switched on accessory and not able to light with the key in the off position. That is the nice thing about adding the fuse block per the schematic linked, everything connected to the fuse block is off when the ATV key is in the off position. Just make sure on you lighted switch that you identify the 3 connections properly; +12V, ground, and load (lights).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok - my brother in law is an electrician and he will be helping me do these installs, so i will have a little help electrical wise

I actually just ordered the Trail Tech Vapor kit for my Kodiak, so that will be installed as well

So it sounds like i need a fuse box and relays, can you guys point me to which brand and stuff you guys use?

Any pictures on how you guys do these relays and fuse boxes?
 

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Grizzled Mod
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Something else that is very helpful on ATVs... solder all connections! Crimp-on stuff is great, but on an ATV the vibration and dirt/mud can foul crimp-on connections. I still use the crimp-on connectors but more so to hold the connector in place and then I solder the wire to the connector.

For butting two wires together, in the past I put heat-shrink tubing on, soldered the two wires together and then the heat-shrink tubing over that. Works well but can be a pain to solder the two wires together first. I've since switched to Solder-Seal Connectors. Those things are awesome and work well. The center ring does melt and solder the two wires together and also creates a really good seal from the heat-shrink, all in one step. If you have never used them before, try them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Red, I am looking at the Blue Sea Systems fuses, can you let me know which one you purchased, quite a few different ones, or everything I need to make your diagram work lol..

I found some of those solder-seal connecters on ebay for 8 bucks, ill order those as well.

I want to do this right, and I want to hide as much wiring as I can :)
 

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I purchased some of those soldier connections and found them worthless. If the wires that you are trying to connect have a larger diameter of insulation they won't go into the connector. I also found that the plastic would start to melt before the soldier would. Then yo have to hold them in one place to let the soldier ring cool off before you even thought of moving it.

I found that just some good old heat shrink and soldier will make just as good if not better splice.

If I still have the kit of connectors I might be willing to get rid of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
for 8 bucks shipped not really a big deal, I guess I will make that decision when the time comes.

The fuses and relays are what is confusing me, juts not sure what I actually need to purchase.
 

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Here is a very crude drawing on how to use a fuse block and a relay.

The relay will get it's power from a keyed on power. So when you turn the key on the relay is energized and sends 12 volts to the accessories that require power. You can also place a switch in that keyed on power to where the switch controls the 12 volts to the relay.

One of the contacts of the relay will come directly from the battery + side. Then when the key is on and the switch is on then there will be 12 volts sent to the fuse block which will turn on the accessory. It may just be me but I would place a inline fuse in the line from the battery to the relay contact. This fuse needs to be able to pass all the amps that all the accessories that may be tied into the fuse block could draw at maximum draw.

I have seen fuse blocks in auto parts stores electrical parts aisle along with relays that are enclosed with just the terminals showing that use spade connectors to connect to them.

Now that you are totally confused, have your brother in law walk you through what you are confused about.
 

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Grizzled Mod
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@nags and @JimP , if you look at the link I posted with the schematic attached, it shows the exact # pinouts and which relay and fuseblock is being used. The relay was purchased at an automotive store and the fuse block is a BlueSea version, model is listed on the schematic for both.

And @JimP , the version of solder-seal connectors I bought have worked perfectly for me every time. Hopefully you didn't end up with some bad ones.
 

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I don't know how I missed your link, before I posted my artwork I went up and looked at your first post and not seeing anything I just did my post.

On the connectors I can see how they would work and the principal behind them and that is why I purchased the kit. But when I noticed that the wire that I was going to splice had a heaver insulation on it that what could be placed into the connector I started to wonder. I even shaved down the insulation a little but even that didn't work. I tried a few of the connectors before I struck them into my who knows what drawer out in my garage.
 

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I've had the same experience as Jim with the solder seal butt connectors. Not fitting some brands items primary wire even though it's the proper gauge, but the worst part is the solder not melting before the outer insulation. I filed them all under g...garbage can. I'll stick to tried and true regular solder and heat shrink.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok - I ordered the Blue Sea St Blade Fuse Block Model #5025, looks like it can be used with 6 accessories.

This fuse block comes with the negative bus

Now does every accessory I want to add need a relay switch? I want to get all the parts I will need ahead of time to do the install, we can then figure the wiring, the parts needed are important!

From Battery to Fuse Block I will need 1 Fuse and 1 relay switch between them.

1. 30 AMP Inline Fuse -> I did an internet search and there seems to be quite a few different kinds, from circuit breakers to audio in line. Any idea which fuse I should get for this? any help would be appreciated.

2. The Relay switches "SPST" -> some come with Harnesses/some dont, I take it I need the one without the harness correct.

Can the 30 AMP Inline fuses/relay switches be bought at autozone?

For the Accessories such as the Light Pods and the Trail Tech Vapor, I will need 1 relay for each correct?

Those relays are the "SPDT" models correct? Same question with the harness or not.

Reading helped me understand a little better, Just want to know when the times comes to install, I have everything I need to make it all work..

I appreciate your guy's help, want to do it once and right
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also for the relays, summit motorsports isnt too far from me, would this relay work for all the relay needs i am trying to do?


Or is each one needed a seperate variation?
 

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Grizzled Mod
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Ok - I ordered the Blue Sea St Blade Fuse Block Model #5025, looks like it can be used with 6 accessories.
I've actually run more than 6 accessories off of my fuse block. If two accessories have a very low amp draw, I double them up on one connector and use an appropriate fuse.

Now does every accessory I want to add need a relay switch? I want to get all the parts I will need ahead of time to do the install, we can then figure the wiring, the parts needed are important!
No, you do not need to add multiple relays. If you wire it up like in my schematic, the whole fuse block only gets energized when you key on your Kodiak. There could be a specific accessory where an additional relay could be used, but that would be a special case. For your lighting, you will probably want to add a switch so it is not on all of the time..

From Battery to Fuse Block I will need 1 Fuse and 1 relay switch between them.
Correct

1. 30 AMP Inline Fuse -> I did an internet search and there seems to be quite a few different kinds, from circuit breakers to audio in line. Any idea which fuse I should get for this? any help would be appreciated.
I wouldn't over-think this. They are all going to be pretty similar but I chose a 30amp fuse that has a water tight box and wire on each each. I also wanted a fuse type that was easy to replace in the event it blew.

2. The Relay switches "SPST" -> some come with Harnesses/some dont, I take it I need the one without the harness correct.
I did all my own wiring so didn't find it necessary to purchase any additional wiring harnesses for a relay or accessory.

Can the 30 AMP Inline fuses/relay switches be bought at autozone?
Yes.

For the Accessories such as the Light Pods and the Trail Tech Vapor, I will need 1 relay for each correct?
No for an additional relay on the light pods but it depends on your application. If you are only wanting to turn the light pods on with a switch, you do not need an additional relay for them. Per the Trail Tech Vapor, I have no experience with that item but just do not believe an additional relay would be needed. The easy way to remember what a relay is used for is as a traffic cop for voltage. A relay is an "automatic" switching device. When one pin sees voltage, it will throw a switch and connect two other pins. That is a basic concept but relay can also be used to detect ground or loss of voltage/ground, multiple ways to use them but don't get too hung up on all of the ways they can be used, just follow the schematic and you'll be good.

Those relays are the "SPDT" models correct? Same question with the harness or not.
You do not need to find the exact relay by model number. Important part is to find a relay with the same pin-outs and I know the one I bought was from an auto parts store, could have been O'Reilly or Autozone. This one would work and notice, it only has 4 pins, not 5. NAPA Perfect Additions Light Relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, you do not need to add multiple relays. If you wire it up like in my schematic, the whole fuse block only gets energized when you key on your Kodiak. There could be a specific accessory where an additional relay could be used, but that would be a special case. For your lighting, you will probably want to add a switch so it is not on all of the time..
Ok cool - so only one relay switch and one inline fuse is needed for the setup - Gotcha.

when you say switch - are you referring to the illuminated toggle on/off switch my lights came with - I dont want to splice these into any of the other lights, I want them completely separate, turned on/off by that switch and only can be used when the key is on. I think your drawing/schematic accomplishes that.

I appreciate all the time you are taking helping explain things, I tend to overthink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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