[Moreland Kodiak]

I own a 2017 Kodiak 700. It's the first ATV I've owned so my results may be normal but I notice it gets really hot after just a short period of use. I don't see any warning lights but it seems abnormal. I took it in for first service at an authorized dealer but it's still seems very hot after about 10 minutes of riding.

 

[XeroSasEnchros]

It’s normal that 700s run hot. There're a few things you can do.

Delete the AIS (AIS burns the unburnt fuel in your exhaust to meet emissions) this will cool down your exhaust and you will have less backfires when letting off the throttle too. There’re videos on YouTube how to do it.

Wrapping your exhaust pipe, doubling up on heat reflective tape, and make sure you clean any mud out of your radiator (front and back).

 

[JimP]

It's normal. I actually have a temperature gauge on mine and it will fluctuate between 196 and 206 degrees. It feel warmer due to the air flow around the motor.

I used some heat reflective tape to go onto the fender above the muffler to cool that area down. Before a passenger had a hard time sitting behind me and now it is more comfortable. My next step is to get the exhaust pipes ceramic coated to help. But neither help what the thermostat opens and closes at and the air flow around the motor and out of the vents on the sides.

 

[Primethious]

The tape helps.
I added a bunch on the underside of all the plastics.
Another thing you need is a fuel tuner to richen the mixture. Lean is hotter.

 

[TRW]

I have always been amazed at the high temp from the 700. Is there a consensus on doing the AIS plug as XeroSasEnchros talked about?

 

[XeroSasEnchros]

I have always been amazed at the high temp from the 700. Is there a consensus on doing the AIS plug as XeroSasEnchros talked about?

It doesn’t hinder performance or reliability. The only reason its there is to meet emissions.

https://youtu.be/7hETdp4yLR0

 

[TRW]

Interesting, I can't imagine this modern day unleaded gas is a contributor air pollution. My chainsaw smokes, my ATV does not.

 

[JimP]

Interesting, I can't imagine this modern day unleaded gas is a contributor air pollution. My chainsaw smokes, my ATV does not.

But then your chainsaw is using a oil/gas mix and will smoke due to the oil.

But it isn't just the smoke that they are regulating but all kinds of things that you get when you burn any type of gasoline.

 

[TRW]

Thanks JimP, I have limited knowledge on this pollution control stuff, I do know that the fuel burns so much cleaner than when I was a kid.

 

[JimP]

Actually we found out years ago when we were building high horsepower engines that the higher the HP the better the fuel burn was along with the better fuel mileage you got if you ran the correct type carburetor along with the fuel jetting.

We had one Chevy 327 that was pushing 500hp on the dyno while in a car that got a little bit over 30 mpg during the break in on the motor. This was with a 2 barrel carburetor and a 4 speed manual transmission. Now when we put those 2 4 barrel carburetors on top of that engine she drank fuel like there was no tomorrow. But when we put the car on the dyno and stuck the sniffers up the pipes that motor was burning as clean as a freshly changed baby.

The problem comes from people not maintaining their vehicles for peak performance and as the time wears on without a tune up every week things start to deteriorate to the point that the pollution starts to pour out of the pipes.

So now to meet all the federal regulations things are choked down and leaned out so much other problems come up. But the engine builders don't have to worry about it once that vehicle leaves the showroom. It is now up to the consumer to take care of it.

 

[TRW]

Wow that is very interesting info, thanks a bunch.

 

[BlueIronRanger]

It's normal. I actually have a temperature gauge on mine and it will fluctuate between 196 and 206 degrees. It feel warmer due to the air flow around the motor.

I used some heat reflective tape to go onto the fender above the muffler to cool that area down. Before a passenger had a hard time sitting behind me and now it is more comfortable. My next step is to get the exhaust pipes ceramic coated to help. But neither help what the thermostat opens and closes at and the air flow around the motor and out of the vents on the sides.

The dash gauge on my 19' shows roughly the same temperatures, 206* is where the fan kicks on, and the thermostat starts to open at roughly 170* as it warms up to the temperature quickly during a ride then slowly creeps up to the 195-205* range. Just a quick note, just about EVERY new ATV test rode before purchasing the Kodiak 700 had a Hot panel on the exhaust panel, most notable was a Can-am which would probably cause a burn on your leg if you had shorts on. My Rancher 420s get pretty warm too, but not as bad at the Kodiak.

 

[KodiakAfishyo]

In researching the AIS I find that some say it cools the exhaust and others say it makes it run hotter. Anyone know for sure which it is?

 

[Vincent]

In researching the AIS I find that some say it cools the exhaust and others say it makes it run hotter. Anyone know for sure which it is?

I have no experience with it but I believe it's a form of air injection system that helps burn off any residual fuel molecules in the exhaust to meet tight emmission standards . Apparently it causes alot of the popping when decelerating. I believe only a fuel programmer can help bring down the exhaust temperatures. Some one can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[TRW]

My first 2016 700 Kodiak, snapped and popped on deceleration and coming down hills. When I took it to the dealer, I am convinced that they lied to me, said it needed a new plug and fuel and that supposedly fixed it. They also did not fix it under warranty (10 hours) as they said it was my bad fuel.(It was not) It cost me over $100, and I complained, but was actually happy they fixed the issue. I wonder what they really did to fix it? I could be wrong.

 

[KodiakAfishyo]

I called my dealer yesterday to ask them. Service dept. told me they have never blocked off the AIS. What they do on the one's that come in for running too hot is reprogram the EFI system to run richer, and have great results with that (they charge $60 to do it). I went home and pulled my spark plug out to see how mine is burning and after 800 plus miles it was still clean and had a perfect tan color on the insulator. And since I can never remember my Kodiak never having a popping issue and maybe once or twice ever backfiring, I have decided to leave it as is...stock (a none issue for now.)

 

[TRW]

I would leave it also, and I had no idea they could fine tune the EFI. I would stay with that dealer, they seem on top of things. I have never had to good conversation with a dealer. I own two ATVs, and 4 motor cycles. My first motor cycle, and 80 cc 1964 Yamaha.

 

[team roper]

Actually we found out years ago when we were building high horsepower engines that the higher the HP the better the fuel burn was along with the better fuel mileage you got if you ran the correct type carburetor along with the fuel jetting.

We had one Chevy 327 that was pushing 500hp on the dyno while in a car that got a little bit over 30 mpg during the break in on the motor. This was with a 2 barrel carburetor and a 4 speed manual transmission. Now when we put those 2 4 barrel carburetors on top of that engine she drank fuel like there was no tomorrow. But when we put the car on the dyno and stuck the sniffers up the pipes that motor was burning as clean as a freshly changed baby.

The problem comes from people not maintaining their vehicles for peak performance and as the time wears on without a tune up every week things start to deteriorate to the point that the pollution starts to pour out of the pipes.

So now to meet all the federal regulations things are choked down and leaned out so much other problems come up. But the engine builders don't have to worry about it once that vehicle leaves the showroom. It is now up to the consumer to take care of it.

JimP, that brought back some fond memories. I had a couple of small block chevy engines that made some good power also. In the early 1970's I built a Chevelle to run NHRA C/mp class. I had a 327cu. in. bored .060 over to make it a 340 cu. in. motor. It pushed that car to the high 11's and over 120 mph. Not to bad for back then.
Thanks again for your post'
George

 

[Kokopelli]

Actually we found out years ago when we were building high horsepower engines that the higher the HP the better the fuel burn was along with the better fuel mileage you got if you ran the correct type carburetor along with the fuel jetting.

We had one Chevy 327 that was pushing 500hp on the dyno while in a car that got a little bit over 30 mpg during the break in on the motor. This was with a 2 barrel carburetor and a 4 speed manual transmission. Now when we put those 2 4 barrel carburetors on top of that engine she drank fuel like there was no tomorrow. But when we put the car on the dyno and stuck the sniffers up the pipes that motor was burning as clean as a freshly changed baby.

The problem comes from people not maintaining their vehicles for peak performance and as the time wears on without a tune up every week things start to deteriorate to the point that the pollution starts to pour out of the pipes.

So now to meet all the federal regulations things are choked down and leaned out so much other problems come up. But the engine builders don't have to worry about it once that vehicle leaves the showroom. It is now up to the consumer to take care of it.

JimP, that brought back some fond memories. I had a couple of small block chevy engines that made some good power also. In the early 1970's I built a Chevelle to run NHRA C/mp class. I had a 327cu. in. bored .060 over to make it a 340 cu. in. motor. It pushed that car to the high 11's and over 120 mph. Not to bad for back then.
Thanks again for your post'
George

Very good stuff. I only have one car that would get into the 11s, mostly 12-12.5.. Lots of fun..

Now I'lheading to the garage to drink beer, pet the Kodiak and reminisce.