I'm a newbie and am looking to transition from overlanding in my truck to riding an ATV. From all the reading I've done and the few rentals I've had over the years I'm pretty certain I'll be riding a Kodiak 700 soon. After 40+ years of offroading and overlanding in a truck (and years of MX before that), I'm interested in simplifying the experience. Everywhere I go I share the trails with UTV/ATV riders and they are having way more fun than me. Since my truck is 30 years old it requires a constant stream of parts and it seems like I break an expensive part about every 3rd outing. I was in the Tillimook forest in January and pretty much tore the rear quarter off the beast - so it's time to move to a vehicle built for the environmment. I look forward to reading recommendations and seeing how folks upgrade their Kodiaks!
Hey there from the Northwest
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Welcome. You will find lots of good information here.
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@pasty63 curious what truck you are using for overlanding adventures? As you know, big, heavy trucks are harder on parts so those end up breaking more easily. With something like a Kodiak, the parts are generally pretty tough but can be broken too. Best thing is, they are generally waaaaay cheaper to replace and much easier to work on. With your truck, chances are you are running trails much slower than guys on ATV/SxS so your comment about more fun is true. So, more fun, cheaper to operate... you're making the right decision. When you get it, try and maintain some self control and learn the bike, learn the tipping points, learn off-camber traversing while weight shifting, etc.. Truth be told, many of us still have a hard time maintaining self control!
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I just got back from a 3 day trip where I took the sleeping bag and tent on the Kodiak. And could just set up anywhere. It was the best feeling.
Welcome to the site. I definitely agree on the fun level being superb.
It you leave it stock for a bit, to teach you how easy it wants to lean in corners, then maybe start with a simple tire upgrade, youll love it. My friend rode stock for about 3+ years. And went through everything I did. But he appreciates the new tires abilities.
Welcome to the site. I definitely agree on the fun level being superb.
It you leave it stock for a bit, to teach you how easy it wants to lean in corners, then maybe start with a simple tire upgrade, youll love it. My friend rode stock for about 3+ years. And went through everything I did. But he appreciates the new tires abilities.
Hey RR. I am currently running a 1990 Range Rover - essentially the same drive train as a Defender in a 100" wheelbase - with much cheaper/easier to get used parts. I still run the aluminum Buick V8 variants - currently a 4.2 liter. I'm switching back to a fully geared, locking t-case from a viscous right now - and repairing the front diff air locker. The rear is automatic (Detroit). None of this work is cheap - even though I do it in my own shop. I only do 2 to 4 day trips anymore, so all the gear carrying space isn't necessary (most of it goes to spares and tools anyway
I'm in my late 50s, so the utility ATV is appealing to me as I have accummulated a lot of injuries and I don't need a (more) severe limp - so no go-fast options needed. I don't think I'd even need EPS, but I would like a front locker. I find the 501 parts option interesting. I'd also add a winch as I don't want to push around something that big. I also think the utility would be great around the yard for moving my aluminum boat out to the street and pulling windfall out of my woods. My plan is to put the Range Rover up for sale to cover the cost of a utility trailer and part of the ATV. I can then pull the Kodiak with our minivan (3500lb max). I wonder about parking in remote areas for long periods of time. Haven't heard of many issues up in B.C. where I go, but here in western Wa. theft is rampant at any kind of trailhead. Anyway - thanks all for the welcome!
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Very cool. I'm sure you've had many a great adventures in your Range Rover adn you also live in a really nice part of the country so long as one doesn't mind it being wet 8 months of the year . I myself lived 9 years on the north OR coast and made the trip up to Hood Canal from time to time. Always loved a trip up the "coast" into Bremerton, or Port Orchard, into the Hood Canal area or if I needed to make my way over to Olympia/Seattle. But, moved back to CO as the wife got tired of too many 55 degrees, cloudy and windy summer days since we were only a few blocks from the ocean. If only we had been a couple of miles inland, would have been 70 and sunny, sigh.
Sounds like a good plan you have although I'm sure you'll end up missing the RR. I'm only a hand-full of years behind you but I've never learned how to grow up. Be careful and enjoy the new ride when you get it, they are loads of fun and very good utility machines too!
. I myself lived 9 years on the north OR coast and made the trip up to Hood Canal from time to time. Always loved a trip up the "coast" into Bremerton, or Port Orchard, into the Hood Canal area or if I needed to make my way over to Olympia/Seattle. But, moved back to CO as the wife got tired of too many 55 degrees, cloudy and windy summer days since we were only a few blocks from the ocean. If only we had been a couple of miles inland, would have been 70 and sunny, sigh.Sounds like a good plan you have although I'm sure you'll end up missing the RR. I'm only a hand-full of years behind you but I've never learned how to grow up. Be careful and enjoy the new ride when you get it, they are loads of fun and very good utility machines too!
The 501 Parts locket kit is fairly easy to do. They have a great video on their site of it being installed and anyone who can turn a wrench can pretty much do it. I picked up one of their kits with the electric conversion and love it. The only thing that you loose when you do the push button electric kit is the 4x4 light on the dash.
On the EPS, I thought that I wouldn't need it but there are times that I wished that I did but I get along without it.
If you pick up just the base model there are aftermarket parts for the skid plate and A arm guards out there that are better than the stock ones. As I mentioned I have the base model that comes without gauges so I picked up a aftermarket speedometer, and gauge panel and installed it on the handle bar cover. It gives me the speedometer, trip meter, odometer, volt gauge, coolant temperature, and a couple of other things. Just not the fuel gauge.
On the EPS, I thought that I wouldn't need it but there are times that I wished that I did but I get along without it.
If you pick up just the base model there are aftermarket parts for the skid plate and A arm guards out there that are better than the stock ones. As I mentioned I have the base model that comes without gauges so I picked up a aftermarket speedometer, and gauge panel and installed it on the handle bar cover. It gives me the speedometer, trip meter, odometer, volt gauge, coolant temperature, and a couple of other things. Just not the fuel gauge.
Well maintained, what would the useful life of a base Kodiak 700 be? As I am heading into retirement I need to argue before the court of financial responsibility with regard to expenditure - so useful life and expenditure over the useful life become important facets of the discussion. Of course, in favor of the Kodiak is the fact that it's replacing a vehicle that syphons at least $5k/year out of our pocket (and the trend increases each year). Along that line, what's the most expensive thing that is likely to need replacing? and, how often? The 10 year belt warranty definitely seems like a strong selling point.
I can't say how long these newer models of Kodiaks will last but mine replaced a 2000 Kodiak that had gone through 5 sets of tires.
But with the new electronics that run all the new ones all bets are off on how long they will last.
As for the most expensive part it could be any of the electronics. The engines and transmissions are fairly robust
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But with the new electronics that run all the new ones all bets are off on how long they will last.
As for the most expensive part it could be any of the electronics. The engines and transmissions are fairly robust
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The Kodiak and Grizzly 700s platform are nearly identical. So take a look at the reliability of the Grizzly as well. On another forum, there are guys reporting over 20,000 miles on Grizzly 700s. So, you can pretty much bet if you buy a 2020 Kodiak, it is going to give you pretty good service for many years, especially if you are religious about maintenance.
Expensive parts--> tires. Maybe a wheel bearing here or there or an axle/boot. Just depends on what you do with it and how badly you try and beat it up. It is in no way going to be even remotely close to the maintenance costs of your RR.
Expensive parts--> tires. Maybe a wheel bearing here or there or an axle/boot. Just depends on what you do with it and how badly you try and beat it up. It is in no way going to be even remotely close to the maintenance costs of your RR.
Looks like most of the stuff (ECU, sensors) is pocket size - which is nice since it would be possible to carry spares. I see some ECUs available in the $250-$500 range - so that's actually not too bad if they don't all go out at once.
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