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Hey guys, I want to get some feedback on a potential solution and share my experience with others who might have a similar issue.

2016 Kodiak non EPS

THE PROBLEM:

After my ATV warms up it takes a few trys to get it to start, once its started it runs fine. Some attempts it fires up for a second and then dies while other attepts it just cranks. When its cold or has been sitting for long enough to cool down the bike starts up first try with no problem. (I live on an island in Belize where the temperature sits around 80 degrees year round, so not actual cold) What I have been doing is starting it with the throttle slightly open or trying several times for it to start on its own. Both of these are putting extra wear on the engine and the starter. The closest dealership is a long boat ride away, parts are expensice and hard to find here so I cant keep doing things this way.

It seemed like an Air/Fuel issue and I had been reading other posts that suggested the same.

TESTS:

- Removed air filter : No Change
- Unplugged ECT : Starts with less attempts
- Unplugged IAT : No Change
- Inspected Plug : Gap is fine, plug is fouling out from all the starting. (decided to change the plug last so that I could get a better reading for Air Fuel Ratio

incase I played with sensors)
- Adjusted Throttle cable at throttle body : Starts up easy but the idle wanders and you have to be quick on the brake after coming off throttle in gear.(I adjusted this back to original setting)

I grabbed my multimeter and started recording sensor values when cold and hot to compare to factory spec (if i could find them) Then I unplugged the IAC.

POTENTIAL FIX:

With the IAC unplugged the bike would start with no issue. Tested it the next morning and it startded and Idled perfectly.

CONFIRMING THE ISSUE:

- When I plugged the IAC back in the bike wouldnt start
- So I unplugged the IAC again...Now it also wouldnt start!
So I thought it must be a slow or sticky IAC.
- PLugged the IAC in, started the bike with throttle slightly open and I held the throttle until the bike could idle on its own.
- NOW I kill the engine and unplug the IAC (keeping it in its current position)
- Start the bike back up. First try! Bike has been starting fine ever since.

MY CONCERN/Questions

- Any reason why I shouldnt just leave the IAC unplugged? (I am worried it might eventually jiggle into a new postion affecting idle speed. Not worried about Air Fuel Ratio because the map sensor reads after the throttle. Also I wrapped it up to keep water out of plugs)
- Has anyone removed and cleaned one of these? (Its very hard to find parts and im worried I might create a new issue by removing/cleaning)
- Does anyone know where I can buy just an IAC for this bike? Yamaha doesnt sell the IAC individually (have to buy whole throttle body) but I read a few Grizzly owners

swapping out IACs from other vehicles.

Hope this helps a few of you guys/gals with similar problems.
Sorry for the novel
 

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Hi Debra, yes I have experienced this problem with the Kodiak 700 and the Grizzly 700 and it is the IAC valve causing the issue. It is an electronic Idle Air Control valve or Idle Speed Control in other brands.
What happens over time is small fragments of fine dirt build up inside the valve and cause it to stick slightly. These can be cleaned out but will only work sometimes depending on the unit condition and amount of use.
Suzuki 500 and 750 sell their ISC valves as a single part 13520-31G00 the angle of the electical plug is at 90 degree's but should still work fine.
Hope this helps.
 
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