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Had some 26 inch black water evolutions put on my kodiak when I first bought it so to make up for the bigger heavier tires, today I put a 1mm shim, 18 gram grizzly weights and an orange EPI secondary spring. They made a serious difference getting the power to the wheels, the throttle response is way better as well as the backshift, when I first bought the bike it would hardly pick up the front wheels and now it does it with very little effort from me. Over all I'm pretty happy with this setup, the install was prettt basic and it's good bang for the buck I think all in all with shipping everything cost me about $200 bucks.


Also put powermad hand guards on the other week, they look cool and serve a purpose.
 

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Had some 26 inch black water evolutions put on my kodiak when I first bought it so to make up for the bigger heavier tires, today I put a 1mm shim, 18 gram grizzly weights and an orange EPI secondary spring. They made a serious difference getting the power to the wheels, the throttle response is way better as well as the backshift, when I first bought the bike it would hardly pick up the front wheels and now it does it with very little effort from me. Over all I'm pretty happy with this setup, the install was prettt basic and it's good bang for the buck I think all in all with shipping everything cost me about $200 bucks.


Also put powermad hand guards on the other week, they look cool and serve a purpose.
Nice, I'm planning on getting 18 gram grizzly weights, or maybe 20 gram weights when I upgrade to 26inch tires. Wasn't planning on changing the spring however.
 

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Did you do the clutch work on your own? Do you have a part number on the hand gauards you bought. I would like to order a set myself. I can't find a windshield that I like so I am going with hand gauards.
 

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Did you do the clutch work on your own? Do you have a part number on the hand gauards you bought. I would like to order a set myself. I can't find a windshield that I like so I am going with hand gauards.
Yeah did the clutch work myself it's all pretty straight forward. Woulda been nice to have the clutch tool to hold the clutches for torquing the bolts when I reinstalled them but tight is tight imo, not sure On the part number for the handguards pretty sure they are the star series and the mounts that match them, they do the trick had to move some controls around a bit to get them to mount up nice but I'm happy with them
 

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Nice, I'm planning on getting 18 gram grizzly weights, or maybe 20 gram weights when I upgrade to 26inch tires. Wasn't planning on changing the spring however.
The spring made the back shift smoother and it's right there if you let off the throttle and the squeeze it again. Pretty happy with it and it was easy to do.
 

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I did purple epi spring, and 22gr weights ( weights and weight housing combined) ( so 20gr epi weights) with 26" big horns and very nice. I tried the orange and found rhe purple better for my set up. ( not much difference between orange and purple) . I never had luck with shims myself ( belt slippage) but glad it works for you. These bikes are awesome
 

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I did purple epi spring, and 22gr weights ( weights and weight housing combined) ( so 20gr epi weights) with 26" big horns and very nice. I tried the orange and found rhe purple better for my set up. ( not much difference between orange and purple) . I never had luck with shims myself ( belt slippage) but glad it works for you. These bikes are awesome
Something wrong there, you should never have major belt slippage because you installed shims . I ve racked up 4000miles using them and thousands of others have as well with Zero issues....
 

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Yeah?? I put .5 mm shim up to fixed sheave then roller sleave then primary. Washer then nut...
Must be me. Now i am paranoid..lol. did it on my kodiak 450 too in past with 26" bighorns and belt only lasted 500klms ( i just trail ride, low when big hill or slow).
Maybe i will try again. When i took 700 apart belt was glazed and shim face and roller sleave face showed signs of spinning against each other..
Sny suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Yeah did the clutch work myself it's all pretty straight forward. Woulda been nice to have the clutch tool to hold the clutches for torquing the bolts when I reinstalled them but tight is tight imo, not sure On the part number for the handguards pretty sure they are the star series and the mounts that match them, they do the trick had to move some controls around a bit to get them to mount up nice but I'm happy with them

Awesome you got it done and your happy with the performance increase!

But the primary sheave MUST be torque to 100 ft/lbs. Too many have had their primary sheave blow apart and destroy everything because of improper nut torquing .


I've always used the choked straped method to disassemble and reassembling / torquing . It's a bit tricky the first time around but it works great.
 

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Yeah?? I put .5 mm shim up to fixed sheave then roller sleave then primary. Washer then nut...
Must be me. Now i am paranoid..lol. did it on my kodiak 450 too in past with 26" bighorns and belt only lasted 500klms ( i just trail ride, low when big hill or slow).
Maybe i will try again. When i took 700 apart belt was glazed and shim face and roller sleave face showed signs of spinning against each other..
Sny suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Next time you do it, reach out to me and I'll walk threw it with you and we'll get it done right.
 

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I've never done it this way, and it's obviously not my photo, but it seems like the easiest home made , user friendly way to stabulize the primary for maintenance.
 

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Thats different. Good idea, the wood should not break the clutch . I used the strap method, maybe i have crap quality shims..
 

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I saw a You-tube video recently where they tightened the primary sheave with a impact wrench and they did not any thing holding the clutch from turning and it tightened right up easily for them. That sound like a good idea? They made it look like that's how they always do it in their shop.
 

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I don't want to hijack the thread but also don't want to start another clutch thread.


Do you just need the 18gram clutch weights in the Kodiak 700 to have the same characteristics as a Grizzly?
 

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That is my understanding.....and I was at my Yamaha dealer yesterday discussing this subject with them and that is also what they said is the only difference. Mainly because each machine has a different primary purpose. They advised me not to put the Grizzly weights in saying I wouldn't like it for what I use my Kodiak for 90% of the time and that is as a utility machine; hauling, towing, plowing, pulling etc. I may still look for after market weights that fall somewhere in the middle between the 2 weights of the Kodiak & Grizzly for a blend of both if thats even possible.
 

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I don't want to hijack the thread but also don't want to start another clutch thread.


Do you just need the 18gram clutch weights in the Kodiak 700 to have the same characteristics as a Grizzly?
Yes all you needs is Grizzly weights
 

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I saw a You-tube video recently where they tightened the primary sheave with a impact wrench and they did not any thing holding the clutch from turning and it tightened right up easily for them. That sound like a good idea? They made it look like that's how they always do it in their shop.
Your not supposed to use impacts as they can apparently damage your one way bearing
 
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