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What tool is best to hold the clutch in place while torquing? I've seen a handful of home grown options but would rather just buy sumtin (i'm not that clever:))
 

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I use a large wide strap wrench it works but I’m going to make a something better. Check out this thread from grizzly forums , second page 3/4 way down is some tools to buy.
 

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I'be used the choked strap method like 20 times. It a bit tricky to get set up right but it works.

This picture is after servicing the primary sheave and torquing the nut down to 100 ft/lbs
 

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I'be used the choked strap method like 20 times. It a bit tricky to get set up right but it works.

This picture is after servicing the primary sheave and torquing the nut down to 100 ft/lbs
Luv it guys.
Vincent - i'm really hesitant to do this myself (replace weights to start). I've done easier jobs (winch and plow myself, EFI tuner, air mod, AIS). What is the most critical part of this job that I need to be aware of?
Is it making sure the splines line up when reconnecting the sheave? Is it the actual proper torquing ?
 

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What is the most critical part of this job that I need to be aware of?
Take a picture of your primary moveable sheave once the cage is off. Take another picture once you remove the primary main nut so you can see how much of the splines are exposed. That becomes important because if those splines are not exposed, the moveable sheave is not on there correctly and can cause damage if you continue on to put everything back together and run it that way.

When you put the primary moveable sheave back together, make sure the cam plate stays compressed. Some will use a cut piece of garden hose (4" folded over) or a bunched up rag between the cam plate and grease "cap" to make sure the cam plate does not move or allow the rollers to fall out of place. Remove the garden hose or rag after you have torqued the main primary nut. Use a proper torque wrench on the primary nut, no air tools.

The whole process is pretty straight forward and not difficult.
 
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