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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have done alot of research on the 2016 Kodiak 700 & Grizzly 700. I also know that the Grizzly is quicker off the line and can easily pull a wheelie unlike the Kodiak. I did notice that all the drive train is the same, i.e intake, throttle body, engine, exhaust, and transmission. The rear diffs are different (Grizzly has rear disc brakes and different lock, where the Kodiak has wet brake and no different lock). The front diffs are the same. The one thing that I noted was that the weights in the clutch are different, weights. The Kodiak has heavier weights which are suppose to give it lower torque and a slower pull off the line, while the Grizzly has lighter weights which gives it that faster off the line (and easier wheelies) power. Now supposedly the Kodiak will be a few mph faster then the Grizzly, because the heavier weights will keep the belt tighter on the ramps and it also has smaller tires then the Grizzly. So with all this info I would think that if I just exchanged my weights out for the Grizzly weights that it would be peepie on the throttle like the Grizzly. Any thoughts would gladly be appreciated, I did most of my research at cheapcycleparts.com which gave me all the scymatics in detail including pics and part number. I put both the Grizzly and Kodiak side by side and reviewed the drive train part for part and the only thing i found different were the weights in the clutch.
 

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2016 Kodiak EPS, 26”HTR’s, 18g, EHS airbox/tuner, Barker Slip on.
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From what I heard that's the only difference engine wise. I've only had my Kodiak for a few weeks, I'm really impressed so far, this thing has a lot of potential. thinking of changing clutch weights to the lighter grizzly weights also, but I don't know how involved this change would be.
Currently in a effort to get it sounding better I have installed a 2R exhaust tip, and waiting on HMF fuel optimizer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I ordered my weights from cheapcycleparts.com, ran me about $40 for the 8 weights plus shipping. The weights are for the 2016 Grizzly 700 are 18 grams and the weights for the Kodiak 700 are 30 grams (big difference). Heavier weights translates to slower more increasing power and torque, vs lighter weights power off the line and a little bit more top end in speed. I also found out that the two share the same rims, tires are 1 inch taller 26s on Grizzly vs 25s on Kodiak. Thinking about an upgrade as I wear out these tires. You can also use the Grizzly handlebars (2 1/2 inches taller and almost 3/4 inch more pullback) vs Kodiak, better when standing because the bars are a little higher and pulled back. Any way there is several YouTube videos on cleaning and servicing the clutch, pretty straight forward. I'll post picks as I complete the mod. I also want to do a comparison on distance and top speed between the two and will post this.
:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pulled the clutch cover and removed 4 weights totalling 120 grams. Leaving 120 grams in the clutch. Grizzly has 18 gram weights (18 x 8 =144 grams total), EPI Clutch Kit has 16 gram weights (16 x 8 =128 grams total). My Kodiak is like a raped ape. I can pull the front up into a wheelie with hardly any effort. I am not going to leave only 4 weights in the clutch, but I was impressed with the results. I think between 16 gram weights, 1.0 mm shim and a stiff spring this Kodiak will pull just as hard and fast as a Grizzly.
>:)
 
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2016 Kodiak EPS, 26”HTR’s, 18g, EHS airbox/tuner, Barker Slip on.
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(8) 18 gram weights and you got the grizzly setup. I just added the 2R tip and installed the HMF optimizer, Sounds fantastic, Pretty noticeable difference definitely gained some hp much better throttle response, runs cooler. These things are really lean on factory setup I could not run just the tip, lots of backfiring and sputtering, ran hotter, just leaned it out way too much, killed driveability...the HMF fixed that, happy with the combo. The power is there, I will be installing the 18 gram weights next week. I think that will be it unless I get bigger heavier tires then I'll add a shim..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What was the part number of the HMF Optimizer that you you ordered? I just received my 2R tip and if it is going to cause backfiring and rough running then I will be ordering the Optimizer next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yea I've decided that I'm gonna take the ultimate plunge on my clutch, I've ordered in a Slug Kit (goes internally on the wet clutch), comes with 5 slugs, new gasket and output shaft nut, 1 mm Shim (goes between the sheaves on the primary), Secondary Spring with Anti Friction Washers (goes behind the secondary sheave on the transmission input shaft), and last but not least Dr Pulleys 16 gram Clutch Weights. All of these upgrades can be seen on Youtube for further information. This is suppose to really make for a great performance upgrade and give it more bottom end power without sacrificing top end speed. My last resort will be to send out my sheave to have it milled, but I'll see the results first. That would be the last resort if I feel I need it.
:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I am still waiting on all these parts from JBS, not their fault (production from other company, and mother nature vs shipping), but I got nothing but time. So I did go ahead with getting the sheave milled down. Wade (aka, WhiskeyMike) milled them down 3mm. He did an outstanding job, very professional work.
:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's like adding a shim, it helps with low end torque and power from a dead stop. I rode a 700 with a 1.5 mm shim and I'll tell you the 3mm milled sheave definitely out did the shim job. I wish I wasn't so commited, I want the stuff I am ordering g from JBS, but it is taking way to long for them to get the weights in. I was told that they would be in around the 12th of January, and here it is almost the end and still no parts.
:frown2:
 

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so if you change the clutch weights do you also need to change the secondary spring also?
No.
You only want to change the secondary spring if you want to alter the shift rate of the secondary which isn't necessary if you want to replicate a Grizzly shift pattern. If you want to run big wheels and sneakers then yes, you may want a stiffer spring. It would be most noticeable when you put a load on the bike like lots of mud and those big tires, or if you are riding two up a lot with a lot of weight on the bike, or your just a big person. By installing a stiffer spring on the secondary, it will delay the upshift of the secondary which will hurt acceleration but help in keeping the motor from bogging. This is why changing the spring out is a popular option for people running big rubber.

Stock sized tires, I'd just pull weight from the primary and call it a day. If you want to drag logs and moose, shim out the primary while you are in there.
 

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ok i am replacing my tires as we speak lol but they are only and inch bigger and i dont do alot of mudding mostly trails but i was going to change the weights any ways and the tech guy at yamaha said he thought the secondary springs were different from the grizzly but if i dont have to change the spring i wont worry about it then. thanx
 

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Anybody that upgraded the clutch (weights, shims, machined sheave ...) needed to re-map the ECU after the upgrade? I know that the goal is to have the same set up as the Grizzly but I'm wondering if the engines are tuned differently and just the clutch work will not be enough.
 
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