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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 700 EPS is rather stock but I would like a bit lower "gear" on start-up. Having done a bit of research I am still unsure of my 1st option choice. One choice 1 is: purple spring from EPI and shim 1.5 mm. choice 2: 1.5 mm shim and change the weights from 28 grams to 20 grams. your thoughts PLEASE. thank you,
 

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Start with the weights , and shims.

If more is required do the spring after.
 
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Well how about just shims , ride it see if it suits your needs , if not swap weights , then ride . Then you could do a spring etc . I assume your still on stock tires? Also what are you using the wheeler for ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well how about just shims , ride it see if it suits your needs , if not swap weights , then ride . Then you could do a spring etc . I assume your still on stock tires? Also what are you using the wheeler for ?
stock sized tires- radial Growlers- rocky, muddy, hilly trail riding AOAA (Anthricite Outdoor Adventure) northeastern PA- thanks for aswering so quick- I kinda agree with ya, just shims-see how it is-then I can always do the weighs next (then I'll have to see what the concensus of opinion is on dry or ultramatic grease) there's another entire discussion=UGH! Happy Thanksgiving KO's
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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The most noticeable change in my Kodiak came from weights. I went with 20’s, and a purple spring for hilly conditions. If you go with 18’s, you won’t need the spring. A shim helps, but weights really change it to being totally effortless to climb, accelerate, etc.
 

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stock sized tires- radial Growlers- rocky, muddy, hilly trail riding AOAA (Anthricite Outdoor Adventure) northeastern PA- thanks for aswering so quick- I kinda agree with ya, just shims-see how it is-then I can always do the weighs next (then I'll have to see what the concensus of opinion is on dry or ultramatic grease) there's another entire discussion=UGH! Happy Thanksgiving KO's
Wife and I love AOAA , we’ve been many times . Those growlers are a tad on the heavy side, so you would definitely benefit from a bit more low end from the shims . Check out the mods on mine and wifes quads as I think they perform great at aoaa .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your input- and now a question so I get different answers to confuse me even further- here goes- I have decided to start with the orange (EPI) spring and 1.5 mm shims and see what that does- IF, I decide to change the weights (I believe the Kodiak is shipped with 28 grams) I would go to 20 or 22 grams- Now for the Q ultramatic grease or leave it dry? I did find a local dealer that has 2 tubs of the Yamalube Ultramatic Grease- Happy Thanksgiving from Lancaster, PA Brian
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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Man… you just go straight for the most polarizing question. Next up “ethanol, or non-ethanol” Hahaha!!!
You can do either. If you have dusty conditions, greaseless gets great reviews. I like mine quiet and kinda tight, so I did grease. Maybe next time I service it, might consider greaseless. That Yamaha grease has been discontinued, so get it while you can! Although, popular opinion is that any grease will work. High molly is recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man… you just go straight for the most polarizing question. Next up “ethanol, or non-ethanol” Hahaha!!!
You can do either. If you have dusty conditions, greaseless gets great reviews. I like mine quiet and kinda tight, so I did grease. Maybe next time I service it, might consider greaseless. That Yamaha grease has been discontinued, so get it while you can! Although, popular opinion is that any grease will work. High molly is recommended.
well, thanks for your reply- since I typed that Q, I called a very knowledgeable tech man at EPI and he said about grease or no grease..........ready......?....... OEM and EPI rollers are designed for MUST USE GREASE! why? he said if you want to go greaseless, the rollers must be designed to withstand the higher temperatures associated with going greaseless. So, OEM and EPI rollers must be greased. If U want to go greaseless, you must buy rollers specifically designed to withstand higher operating temperatures vs the OEM grease type. that is what he said and who am I to dispute him ...he works at EPI and he sounded like he knew his stuff......I dunno, if I do decide to go down 7-8 grams, I will use that $$$$ ultramatic stuff since I am picking up a tub of it this week. He has 2 left there. If Yamaha discontinued having it made for them to sell as Ultramatic Grease, what is their plan "B" Surely all the Yamaha shops have to use something ? I sure don't want to spend all day calling a dozen of them at random asking what they use on primary rollers..... I did call one and they said they use a BelRay product. You would think a simple grease question would not explode in such dialogue.....UGH!! Brian
 

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Well, you certainly won’t go wrong by keeping grease. I haven’t heard that temperature explanation before. But I’m happy with grease in mine, so no worries. A senior member is going to chime in here and argue for greaseless.
 

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well, thanks for your reply- since I typed that Q, I called a very knowledgeable tech man at EPI and he said about grease or no grease..........ready......?....... OEM and EPI rollers are designed for MUST USE GREASE! why? he said if you want to go greaseless, the rollers must be designed to withstand the higher temperatures associated with going greaseless. So, OEM and EPI rollers must be greased. If U want to go greaseless, you must buy rollers specifically designed to withstand higher operating temperatures vs the OEM grease type. that is what he said and who am I to dispute him ...he works at EPI and he sounded like he knew his stuff......I dunno, if I do decide to go down 7-8 grams, I will use that $$$$ ultramatic stuff since I am picking up a tub of it this week. He has 2 left there. If Yamaha discontinued having it made for them to sell as Ultramatic Grease, what is their plan "B" Surely all the Yamaha shops have to use something ? I sure don't want to spend all day calling a dozen of them at random asking what they use on primary rollers..... I did call one and they said they use a BelRay product. You would think a simple grease question would not explode in such dialogue.....UGH!! Brian
Well i hate to break it to you, but if that guy gave you winning lottery numbers too, don't bank on winning.
Just because he works there doesn't make him right, more than likely he's a customer service rep that answers phones all day and has never held a roller weight in his hand or even looked inside the CVT.
The sole purpose of that grease is noise reduction. The outer plastic on both oem and even epi is a self lubricating plastic.
Many members here will tell you and a few even have pictures of wear on the rollers from dirt imbedded in the grease.
Common sense will tell you that the same temperature will be seen on the rollers with our without grease, it will be heated by the enging much higher than any ammout of friction could ever cause on a round wheel rolling in an unrestricted channel. .

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Man… you just go straight for the most polarizing question. Next up “ethanol, or non-ethanol” Hahaha!!!
You can do either. If you have dusty conditions, greaseless gets great reviews. I like mine quiet and kinda tight, so I did grease. Maybe next time I service it, might consider greaseless. That Yamaha grease has been discontinued, so get it while you can! Although, popular opinion is that any grease will work. High molly is recommended.
I prefer ethanol free with a splash of ethanol added... Lol

I like that it creates more horsepower in my starter and my front diff.

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Thanks for all your input- and now a question so I get different answers to confuse me even further- here goes- I have decided to start with the orange (EPI) spring and 1.5 mm shims and see what that does- IF, I decide to change the weights (I believe the Kodiak is shipped with 28 grams) I would go to 20 or 22 grams- Now for the Q ultramatic grease or leave it dry? I did find a local dealer that has 2 tubs of the Yamalube Ultramatic Grease- Happy Thanksgiving from Lancaster, PA Brian
To answer one post of your question. Your kodiak has 30gm oem weights. Most of us replace them with 18gm oem grizzly weights, very inexpensive right from your local Yamaha dealer, they also come with the plastic sleeve already on and included in the weight calculation.
The epi weights are just the rollers. Outer plastic sleeves sold separately and add just over 2gm to the advertised weight.

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Thanks for all your input- and now a question so I get different answers to confuse me even further- here goes- I have decided to start with the orange (EPI) spring and 1.5 mm shims and see what that does- IF, I decide to change the weights (I believe the Kodiak is shipped with 28 grams) I would go to 20 or 22 grams- Now for the Q ultramatic grease or leave it dry? I did find a local dealer that has 2 tubs of the Yamalube Ultramatic Grease- Happy Thanksgiving from Lancaster, PA Brian
Honestly your not going to gain much with a orange spring, it’s only a hair stronger than stock. I went with 1.5 shims , purple spring with stock rollers in my wife’s and it performs great . If you’re dead set on the orange try it but I believe you would be happier with a purple spring . As for the grease I run it in my 3 machines.
 

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As mentioned , apparently Orange is bit stiffer then the stock 700 spring.

I had installed one on my privious 550 grizzly which shares the same spring as the 660 grizzly. In that case the orange did a big difference and was cleary much stiffer then a stock 550/660 spring.

On my current 700 grizzly, the purple was actually too stiff for my requirments and i went back to stock shortly after. So maybe in my case the orange would have been the right choice.
 
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