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2023 Kodiak SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a new (2023) kodiak last month (Feb 3rd) and with work, life, etc I've been only able to put about 3 hours on it since. It'll probably be another month before I can reach the 15hrs mentioned for engine break-in. Since the manual also shows doing the typical break-in maintenance at 1 month should I go ahead and do it or would it be best to put the 15 hours on it first? Thanks!
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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I'd wait until you get closer to the 15 hour mark

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Yep, I'm with JimP and I can tell you are a very thorough person and like to meet all the rules, but the time in this case is not important. It used to be that the new machines had a special oil for break-in, I have no idea if that is still the case. I wish I had a new 23! What did you have to pay for it?
 

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The biggest question here would be. Is your bike registered for the 20-year engine warranty? If it is then you will have to do your oil change regardless as they now stay in the manual that if you don't get enough mileage or hours due to infrequent use than you have to go by the time frame schedule which is 6 months and 12 months. If you are not registered for that engine warranty program then I personally would wait. It's not going to hurt anything, it's just regular oil in the engine. There is no break in oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the info and thanks CanadianKodiak, I forgot about the yamalube warranty part of it. My original plan was to indeed use the yamalube fluids for that 20yr warranty and when I talked to the dealer and later confirmed with Yamaha is that you don't register for it anymore. You just have to keep the receipts to be able to show proof. If that's the case depending on how much of a stickler they are willing to be I've already missed the boat since I haven't ordered anything yet and the manual says initial service is 1 month which I've already passed by a few days. I guess one option is to just go ahead and get the stuff and change all the fluids now and if I'm really paranoid do it again at ~15 hour mark.. @TRW I paid 12,571 OTD (700eps se), that was the best price I could find for it that was relatively close to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll go ahead and order the stuff needed to do the service just in case. Looking at partzilla I see the drain & filler bolt plus gasket part #s for the front diff but I'm not able to find them for the rear. Are they same part # or am I completely missing it? If someone could point it out for me that would be appreciated. Thanks,
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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There are a number of the copper washers that are the same, but I don't have which ones go where with me.

The part numbers should be on the diagrams on Partzilla, that's where I ordered mine at.

Do yourself a favor and order enough of them for a number of fluid changes. If you order them separately later the shipping will kill you.

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I pulled up the diagrams on my phone and from what I can tell here are the part numbers and how many you will need.

Rear diff. You have the plug on the back, two drain plugs, and a side check plug. The drain plugs and rear fill plug take the same gasket/washer. The diagram that you need to look at is for the Driveshaft. The gasket/washer is part #25
214-11198-01-00

This is the same washer as what is on the front diff fill plug so you will need a total of 4 of them

The rear diff check plug is #31
90201-08087-00

Front diff drain washer is part #18
90430-10003-00

On the rear diff you fill it from the back plug, but you need to pull the plug on the passenger side to check the level. Once oil starts to flow out of this hole it is full.

You might want to verify the part numbers before you order them.

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Thanks for all the info and thanks CanadianKodiak, I forgot about the yamalube warranty part of it. My original plan was to indeed use the yamalube fluids for that 20yr warranty and when I talked to the dealer and later confirmed with Yamaha is that you don't register for it anymore. You just have to keep the receipts to be able to show proof. If that's the case depending on how much of a stickler they are willing to be I've already missed the boat since I haven't ordered anything yet and the manual says initial service is 1 month which I've already passed by a few days. I guess one option is to just go ahead and get the stuff and change all the fluids now and if I'm really paranoid do it again at ~15 hour mark.. @TRW I paid 12,571 OTD (700eps se), that was the best price I could find for it that was relatively close to me.
Wow, I keep hoping to find someone who got a great deal, but that does not happen. Thanks for the reply and follow-up. I have never heard of the 20-year warranty, and my skeptical nature tells me that even if you are very diligent, this will never pay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I pulled up the diagrams on my phone and from what I can tell here are the part numbers and how many you will need.

Rear diff. You have the plug on the back, two drain plugs, and a side check plug. The drain plugs and rear fill plug take the same gasket/washer. The diagram that you need to look at is for the Driveshaft. The gasket/washer is part #25
214-11198-01-00

This is the same washer as what is on the front diff fill plug so you will need a total of 4 of them

The rear diff check plug is #31
90201-08087-00

Front diff drain washer is part #18
90430-10003-00

On the rear diff you fill it from the back plug, but you need to pull the plug on the passenger side to check the level. Once oil starts to flow out of this hole it is full.

You might want to verify the part numbers before you order them.

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Jim, thank you so much! I think I've got it figured out now. For front diff, #18 for oil drain bolt gasket, #25 for oil filler bolt gasket & I'll want to fill the oil to the brim of the filler hole. For rear diff, #25 for drain bolt & filler bolt gasket & #31 for oil check bolt gasket and fill the oil to the brim of the check hole, not the filler hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, I keep hoping to find someone who got a great deal, but that does not happen. Thanks for the reply and follow-up. I have never heard of the 20-year warranty, and my skeptical nature tells me that even if you are very diligent, this will never pay.
Hey TRW, yeah I'm thinking like you and am skeptical, but figured might as well try I guess.
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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Jim, thank you so much! I think I've got it figured out now. For front diff, #18 for oil drain bolt gasket, #25 for oil filler bolt gasket & I'll want to fill the oil to the brim of the filler hole. For rear diff, #25 for drain bolt & filler bolt gasket & #31 for oil check bolt gasket and fill the oil to the brim of the check hole, not the filler hole.
You got it.
 

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Jim, thank you so much! I think I've got it figured out now. For front diff, #18 for oil drain bolt gasket, #25 for oil filler bolt gasket & I'll want to fill the oil to the brim of the filler hole. For rear diff, #25 for drain bolt & filler bolt gasket & #31 for oil check bolt gasket and fill the oil to the brim of the check hole, not the filler hole.
I have one more request, if possible take a drop of all those oils, put them on a white paper, and look to see how much dirt or metal fleck you have. I did that on mine and had much cleaner oil than I expected, but one of my friends had worse than I would have thought. The fleck gets easier to see once you let the oil get soaked into the paper. Use a well illuminated area to inspect them.
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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If you really want to get the nitty gritty of what's in the oil send a sample to Blackstone Labs. You can get a free sample kit by visiting their web site.

But I wouldn't be too worried about small metal shavings in the front or rear diffs. Those gears need to wear in and I would consider it normal. But if you have shavings in the motor oil I'd start to get worried, even if the motor oil also lubricates the transmission

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Wow I never heard of the 20 year warranty! I'd be up with that. I alway do all my fluids every year even when I may not have driven it more that an hour or so. I'm a little over the top but don't want to ever have to second guess anything. Always Yammy fluids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Question about the front diff change. The owners manual says to fill it to the brim till it begins to run out and the service manual says fill it with about .23 quarts which is about 7.36 ounces. When I was changing mine it seemed like it was closer to 8 ounces before it started running out. Does that difference in amount make much of a difference or should I drain it and fill again but stay closer to the 7.36 ounces?
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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I have always just filled it to where it runs out of the fill hole.

Unless you are using a syringes to get the exact amount you'll be close enough by doing it the way that you are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok.. so I screwed up.. I was putting back in the drain bolt and it cross threaded and broke off some of the threads in the drain hole of the diff. So now with the washer on the bolt there鈥檚 not enough threads to tighten it. If I take the washer off it seems like it will tighten up. Any ideas? Is there maybe a longer bolt that鈥檚 the same size?
 

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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 base model
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I'd take the bolt down to a parts store and see if I could find a flange bolt with the correct threads that is long enough.

Other than that you'll have to drill and place a heli coil into it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have spare bolts from a dirt bike I had and they are similar in threads and it seemed like it was going in good. Just worried about the length. Don鈥檛 know if it鈥檇 be too long? Also, is this worth talking to the dealer since it鈥檚 practically new? I鈥檓 just surprised that the threads broke off like they did.
Household hardware Nickel Fastener Metal Auto part
 
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