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Discussion Starter #41
I think I answered my own question on the last image, in that the collar slides back and forth by design.

My next of the never-ending questions for all of you is whether this looks like wear on the primary clutch (I read somewhere it should be smooth but it did not specify there'd be a tapering...)

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And then, switching over to the other side of the bike, what is this whitish/yellowish tube (it's probably 1/4") hanging down from behind the left-side foot panel?

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The tube is just a vent tube. It was quite likely clear at one time.

On the clutch it looks more like pitting on the aluminum instead of wear.
 

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Your sheave tapers are standard and look OK but you can take something like steel wool or high grit sand paper and smooth out what appears to be mild aluminum corrosion. Highly suggest you service the primary and secondary by way of new grease. This video helps to understand how Yamaha's CVT system works.
 
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Discussion Starter #44
Your sheave tapers are standard and look OK but you can take something like steel wool or high grit sand paper and smooth out what appears to be mild aluminum corrosion. Highly suggest you service the primary and secondary by way of new grease. This video helps to understand how Yamaha's CVT system works.
This was an excellent video, thanks for sharing - I previously had nearly 0 understanding of how a CVT worked and this made (almost) complete sense to me. The "back-shifting" and integrated engine braking is a feature I've noticed for years having my Kodiak, namely that it was very, very stable / capable going up and down hills where other bikes I've ridden felt "loose."

This explains why! Thanks, again!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well, I only had time today to tear everything apart before I had to run back to work but I'm feeling pretty confident that this insane mouse nest in the CVT case and packed into the clutch is the reason for my poor performance.

Also, shout out to the person who suggested using a ratchet strap to hold the sheave in place in order to loosen that 22MM bolt...for posterity, here's what it looked like when I did it:

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And a look at the deplorable state of the clutch and the pile of greased up mouse guts I pulled out of each roller sleeve:

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Well, I only had time today to tear everything apart before I had to run back to work but I'm feeling pretty confident that this insane mouse nest in the CVT case and packed into the clutch is the reason for my poor performance.

Also, shout out to the person who suggested using a ratchet strap to hold the sheave in place in order to loosen that 22MM bolt...for posterity, here's what it looked like when I did it:

View attachment 10229

View attachment 10230

And a look at the deplorable state of the clutch and the pile of greased up mouse guts I pulled out of each roller sleeve:

View attachment 10231

View attachment 10232
Rachet strap was me. Great progress! Happy your getting her done
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Rachet strap was me. Great progress! Happy your getting her done
Thanks! Yes, I'm glad to get into this and know what's going on...I was able to get everything cleaned up good but now have to put the kids to bed.

Is it okay to use a quality, general purpose grease on the roller weights and slides? That's all I have on hand but thought I should check before I put this whole thing back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
For some reason I couldn't add a photo before...here's all the cleaned up parts, just hesitating on the grease-up to make sure I can use a standard grease. I know someone recommended Yamaha ultramatic grease but I can't find that anywhere locally.

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The service manual actually calls for Bel-Ray assembly lube which has a high molly content that most heavy duty automotive grease doesn't have.

The Bel-Ray lube is used mostly to lubricate parts in rebuilt engine, but don't try and find any, I have looked and it seems like it is a unicorn

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Discussion Starter #50
The service manual actually calls for Bel-Ray assembly lube which has a high molly content that most heavy duty automotive grease doesn't have.

The Bel-Ray lube is used mostly to lubricate parts in rebuilt engine, but don't try and find any, I have looked and it seems like it is a unicorn

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Ok, so would it be safe to say, in other words, use what you have if it's quality grease?

It's funny you mention high-moly being a unicorn because I did in fact see a container of grease that said that on the side of it at the auto center. Maybe I'll ask the wife to grab a canister when she's doing her final round of Thanksgiving shopping...
 

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I think that if I had to I would look through the assembly grease section at the auto parts store and pick the one with the higher molly content

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If you can't find a high temp water resistant grease, you are fine to not use any on the rollers. Many of us are running grease less. The only purpose of grease on the roller weights is to help reduce noise. Mine aren't really noticable so it's not that loud.
If you have normal wheel bearing grease that you use on a trailer, that will do.
Just remember, if you do is grease, less is more, you don't need a ton of it in there, it's for noise, not lubrication.

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What I've got says "superior water resistant" and 350 F "dropping point"...sound good?
It would probably work fine.
 

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What I've got says "superior water resistant" and 350 F "dropping point"...sound good?
Yup, that should be fine.

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Discussion Starter #57
I've shocked even myself and reassembled everything into place, the quad runs great up and down the driveway. I did make it a good way through re-installing the clutch case before realizing the back half (with the fins) of the primary clutch was not on...3 and 5 year olds in the garage are great for your concentration.

Otherwise, I'm looking forward to getting it onto the trails in our back 30 and maybe skid some firewood logs. I put the shim kit on while I was at it, it only 2 of the 4 rings since I was concerned about those splines making it out a bit proud. If it doesn't seem to give the oomph I'm expecting maybe I'll put the other two in when I open this up in the spring and take a look at condition.

Thanks to everyone for their input and advice!
 

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I've shocked even myself and reassembled everything into place, the quad runs great up and down the driveway. I did make it a good way through re-installing the clutch case before realizing the back half (with the fins) of the primary clutch was not on...3 and 5 year olds in the garage are great for your concentration.

Otherwise, I'm looking forward to getting it onto the trails in our back 30 and maybe skid some firewood logs. I put the shim kit on while I was at it, it only 2 of the 4 rings since I was concerned about those splines making it out a bit proud. If it doesn't seem to give the oomph I'm expecting maybe I'll put the other two in when I open this up in the spring and take a look at condition.

Thanks to everyone for their input and advice!
Congrats bud!
 

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It's always nice when you dig into something yourself and it comes out running great in the end...
 
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Discussion Starter #60
So, all panels are back in place and I did oil, filter and a new air filter (mice got to that,.too, the original, reusable one is chewed to pieces)...so, feel great about that.

I don't know if it's because it hasn't run right in so long and I'm just not used to the sound but when I did a cold start I flipped the choke lever to the far left like I typically would below freezing and it suddenly sounds to me like it's staying in that position even after I flip the lever back. The quad eventually levels back out but I tried starting it again (no choke) and got sort of a similar sound. Maybe it's the clean air filter, since my old one was so crapped up by mice and it's actually getting good air?

I took a video of the choke lever and it looks to be operating the paddle in the carburetor at least externally...
 
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