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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 16 Kodiak, that has always had a hard time turning over the engine. It starts if it goes right away, but if it has to crank for 4 seconds it fails to start and will not go after that with out a rest or recharge the battery. I replaced the battery and have the same issue. Just wondering if I need a bigger battery or if I have an issue with the engine, it runs well once it gets going. It seems like the compression might be too high that the starter locks up?

Anyone got this issue or a suggestion?
 

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Whats is the voltage on the battery read with a digital volt meter before you try to start and while the starter is engaged? Also check what the voltage is with the engine running.

It sounds almost like a bad cable or connection. Do you run it in the mud and water? Check the ground connection on both the battery and where it attaches to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good questions, I will measure it when I get a chance, and look for other issues that you mention. Thanks for the reply, I will get back in a few days.
 

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Just to give you some ballpark figures here are the reading on my Kodiak.

After sitting for 2 weeks key off 12.6 volts

Key on 12.3 volts

Engine running and charging 13.9-14.1 volts.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Those numbers are exactly what I get, I wish I had checked to see the cranking voltage when it would not start, but it might not be relevant as I jump started it and it started fine. I think from that, I am going to assume the battery is not good. Cables look good and no mud or corrosion. When I jumped it it was right on the battery. The battery was rated at 270 cold cranking amps, and was a Caltric AGM, maybe a poor choice.

Thanks for your help Jim!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So this morning I decided my starter seems to have failed, with unlimited battery available it will not turn the engine over, more than a second, the it quits. I have the lights on while the starter is trying to turn, and they stay lit at 90 percent. Anyone care to offer advice, the starter has always had a whine with it cranks. This is a low hour 2016 Kodiak. I thought it was the battery, but it is not.

But now, I am now told that this is likely a decompression spring issue. I think this was the issue repaired under warranty recall, that never got much attention. It was done, but now is back. Anyone having issues with this?

I am an amateur so I don't know if I should take this to a new thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So this morning I decided my starter seems to have failed, with unlimited battery available it will not turn the engine over, more than a second, then it quits. I have the lights on while the starter is trying to turn, and they stay lit at 90 percent. Anyone care to offer advice, the starter has always had a whine with it cranks. This is a low hour 2016 Kodiak. I thought it was the battery, but it is not.

But now, I am now told that this is likely a decompression spring issue. I think this was the issue repaired under warranty recall, that never got much attention. It was done, but now is back. Anyone having issues with this?

I am an amateur so I don't know if I should take this to a new thread?
 

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To do much trouble shooting on the starter you are going to need a manual that will show you what to do.

If you don't hear the starter running then it quite likely is going to be the starter but at $160 for a new one I would want to do more trouble shooting before I replaced it.

Or you just might need to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer to have them figure it out.

There are manuals on CD's on Ebay that can be bought for around $20 that give you some detailed information on the starter itself. But I think that if I was in your boat right now I would just take it to the dealer and cross my fingers that they take care of it quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I hate to do that, and will think it over, but I really appreciate your help! The sad part is that I have a 91 Honda 300 four trax that I have been using now that this one won't start! I bought it new, and it has never been in the shop!
 

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For now if you want to pull the starter and see if it even spins off of the bike when you apply 12 volts and ground it. It could be something as simple as just a bad starter.

The problem with these machines is that the starter connects into a starter clutch system and I have never tore into something like that..........yet.

On old bikes I had a 2000 Kodiak 400 that all I really did to it was regular maintenance and replacing wear parts such as breaks. Even the original battery was still starting it when I sold it after 17 years. I was on the fifth set of tires when it sold.
 

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There is also a relay that controls the voltage to the starter that you can check, it should be listed in the owners manual.

When it comes down to it I think that it is going to be something simple such as the starter or even perhaps the wiring to it. There is also a ground strap that connects to the starter that could be causing problems.
 

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You'll have to do a search on Youtube and see if anything comes up. You can also look at a Grizzly 700.

On my repair manual it says that the muffler has to come off once the body panels are off.

Here are a couple of pictures of what comes off from my manual if you can see them. One is for the muffler and the other for the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was going to take it to the Dealership Near La Crosse Wisconsin, but they did the recall decompression spring and then they told me it also needed new gas, and new a spark plug and the machine with 10 hours on I paid over 100:00 to get it running well. It had the original gas in it! This issue has never been good, and this machine runs well when running, but I will have to tow it into my garage and park my car outside while I am working on it.

I am glad to have you Jim and all the others here as a resource. Should I bit the bullet and buy a new one? This one only has about 20 hours on it.
 

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Sounds like your nearby dealer is like most dealers and like to rip people off. They figure that they won't make anything off of warranty work so they will do a nickle and dime routine on you to get some money. And that is why people hate dealers.

From your previous post I think that it is something simple, you just need to do some checking on a warm day to figure it out. I would start with the wiring and then trace it to the starter. If you can pick up a clamp on DC amp meter it will help a lot in testing things out. Then you would be able to tell a little bit more if there is a amp draw when you hit the starter button or not. Using the lights is a quick way but if the battery is in good shape they could lead you down the wrong path.

As for getting another on, well that is up to you. The only advantage you would have in picking up a new one would be the warranty and you could get a longer one to cover most things down the road for a while to make sure that you didn't find another bad one.

I also just thought of something about the dealer. If you don't trust the one near you check around and see if there is someone that works on these machines that is not connected to a dealer. They might be a better way to go for you. Go out to where people ride ATV's and motorcycles and talk to them they may know of a person like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am really torn by this entire thing. I am considering a new one, and wondering some things. I will start a new link, but at this point I think I might see about trading it in to a different dealer, but don't know what to buy, just a little gun shy on Yamaha. I think the dealer can fix it easily, it might cost me a bunch and then my confidence is shot with this dealer. Who knows how long the repair will last?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To finish this thread, I did sell that to a capable guy, who put a starter in it and is worked great. I bought a new 18 700 EPS and like it.
 

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Hi TRW,

I am having this exact same issue. I will replace the starter. I like my 2016, but there are definitely some issues with that year, not only the starter.

Other issues:
  • My brake light is always stuck on, I have to grab the brake levers on and off to toggle the light off, but then it stays on next time I brake... (I already ordered a new brake light switch)
  • Gear shifting sometimes does not seem to engage properly (cabling issue), and the lights will not indicate it is in Park, therefore won't start, unless I apply brake, or keeping shifting it to Neutral.
- When I was under warranty, they tried to adjust the cabling, but it never fixed it, I just lived with it, because it isn't a show stopper, but I worry it might strand my someday...

I love the machine though, because it really is a workhorse, and does everything I need it to. I want to keep it...

Thanks for all the info everyone!
 

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I agree with you that there are faults with the Kodiak/Grizzly 700 platform however those faults seem minor when looking at the bigger picture of a pretty incredible and capable ATV for what I use mine for. In some cases for those minor faults, work-arounds.

Although you situation appears at least two-fold, have you looked into disabling the brake shift lock-out by way of adjusting the device your left cable? I ask as I vaguely recall the that OEM brake shift lock-out device not being removed on Kodiak/Grizzly 700 ATVs until 2019(?). Someone correct me where I may be wrong here. If your 2016 does have the device, you can adjust to where the shift lock-out is effectively disabled. I have mine set this way and it does work 'most' of the time. I need to probably adjust it a little more to make it work 100% of the time like it worked on my 07 Grizzly.
 

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Mine is just the opposite on the brake switch.

It sticks where the starter override and the light won't come on until I play with the switch a little. It appears that the plunger on the switch is rough and will not operate properly but knowing what the problem is I can deal with it

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 
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