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Discussion Starter #1
What do you guys think of this? Would be much cheaper than the EHS fix and in theory should be just as effective. I’ve got the stuff on order and am going to give it a try as soon as it comes in. I’m going to go with a UNI filter instead of the k&n tho for the better filtering characteristics.

https://youtu.be/NfRYsw8IBk8
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well for one, it addresses the loose air filter connection that plagues bikes with the factory air boxes, which allows dust/dirt to bypass the factory air filter and contaminate the engine. Not all bikes seem to have this issue, mine did. I have been running a napa gold(will have to look to find the part#) paper filter that makes a much better connection with the rubber neck stack sticks out into the air box, but at higher work loads it feels as if my bikes is struggling with power from the paper filter, like it can't get enough air. So I am going to give this a trial and see how it works out. I did the calculations and I believe I found a uni filter that will work perfectly with the hvac duct mount I ordered from Amazon. If I can fix this reliably fix this issue I'm suspecting one would gain increased engine life and a small bit of power at an affordable price.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Okay I dug around and the Napa air filter I have been using is napa# 6790. It seems to stop the dust/dirt contamination but I'm pretty sure it's robbing power, at least somewhat. I think a properly maintained UNI filter would filter as well or almost as well as a paper and wouldn't rob as much power. The only issue I see with the mod I'm wanting to go with is the wall inside the air box that this hvac mount is going to be screwed into is pretty thin, dunno how well screwing into it will hold up as the screws might try to strip out. I might end up going with bolts instead but then I'll have to rip the plastic top off that separates the compartment where the AIS and the crankcase vent is located.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got this done today and I have to say it works amazingly well! I ordered the same spectre hvac duct mount they guy in the video used, and bought a uni 6325ST filter and a can of uni foam filter oil since they don’t come pre oiled. I used a tube of high temp, high torque and vibration gasket maker from advanced auto to make sure it was sealed up well and some short screws. I highly recommend this mod!
 

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I got this done today and I have to say it works amazingly well! I ordered the same spectre hvac duct mount they guy in the video used, and bought a uni 6325ST filter and a can of uni foam filter oil since they don’t come pre oiled. I used a tube of high temp, high torque and vibration gasket maker from advanced auto to make sure it was sealed up well and some short screws. I highly recommend this mod!
Just curious why you didn't go with the spectre performance filter in the video? Are they of poor quality?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did a good bit of research on foam vs fiber filters and foam seems to be in the middle-ground when compared to woven fiber filters like spectre/K&N and plain old paper filters. Plus the factory filter is an oil bathed foam filter so this was essentially an upgrade to the way the filter interfaces to the intake tube and being a slightly bigger filter should in theory help it breathe better while filtering out harmful particles that K&N and Spectre filters allow to pass through.
 

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Also wanted to add, I went for a long ride yesterday. We haven't had rain for nearly a month now and the trails were EXTREMELY dusty. Was behind a few people too so I got some of the worst of it. Took the filter out this morning and checked the inside of the intake tube and am pleased to report no noticeable dust build up :)
 

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Here is a free fix that I made, because I have found all of these fixes interesting but have always considered the stock filter to be a very good quality filter and I did not want to switch to a paper filter because the oiled foam filters are superior for blocking dust. This is very simple; check out the attached photo's. I took a piece of scrap 2X4 and cut it to about 5.5" then wedged it in behind the filter and marked it for depth then cut it for depth so that it fit in flush (see 1st photo). Then all you need to do once you get a good tight flush fit that pushes the filter forward nice and tight is trim the 3 posts flush off of the top cover so they just slightly touch or push down on the wood block. Now you have a nice tight seal at the air intake. If you want added air flow around the back side of the filter and air box, just drill some half inch holes in the block, as many as you like, 4 or 5 should be sufficient.
 

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This might not be the place to ask this, but Nomad, why might you not keep your Kodiak?
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It all rides on what Yamaha does to fix the oil consumption issue that should have been dealt with long ago. Supposedly, they have a top end rebuild kit ready to repair multiple 2016 models. If they don't fully cover the cost, I'll definitely be getting rid of my bike after the repairs . I may unload it regardless because of the way Yamaha operates in general. I contacted them twice since my bike began using oil following it's initial service and they totally ignored me. The dealer tells me, they haven't been much better to deal with on their end either. I just recently took a 2019 Suzuki king quad out for a test. Really liked it.
 

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Thanks a bunch for the response. I understand you concern, and agree with your plan. I had a 16 700 Kodiak, I had several issues and I am a very good mechanic. I sold that to a friend who also is a good mechanic and he did some work on it that included a second compression release spring, a valve adjustment and a new starter, but says the machine is great now. I am old, but still think and act like a kid. I tell you that because in 1966 I bought a 80 cc Yamaha from a cousin who got drafted and went to the war. I was not old enough to have a license but we lived in the country and rode it all over. It was a great bike. I have had a few more Yamaha's since, great product. Nowadays, they are limited to the quality that the Chinese can turnout. The Japanese had strict quality control, the chinese not so much. But the real issue is the attitude of Yamaha, they are arrogant and ignorant. The dealer network is also second rate. Good luck.
 

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Wasn't the issues with the 708 all with just the 2016 model year, the year it was first introduced? That's seems to be what I have read most about. I have a 2017 and have no issues at all and no oil consumption. At 500 miles I figured it was fully broke in and switched to AMSOIL full synthetic 10w-40 ATV oil. Oil consumption will usually be higher with a full synthetic vs conventional oils and I still have zero oil consumption.
 

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Wasn't the issues with the 708 all with just the 2016 model year, the year it was first introduced? That's seems to be what I have read most about. I have a 2017 and have no issues at all and no oil consumption. At 500 miles I figured it was fully broke in and switched to AMSOIL full synthetic 10w-40 ATV oil. Oil consumption will usually be higher with a full synthetic vs conventional oils and I still have zero oil consumption.
From what I have been told, it was indeed the 2016's. Flaws were discovered mid way through the production year and supposedly corrected. The still let all the effected machines hit the market and are only now starting to admit issues. A repar kit is on it's way but I have also been told it only covers the original owner. I bought mine new but I still feel they should fix them all regardless of how many owners they've had. I do know of one 2017 that had the valve seals replaced btw.
 

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I have 12 engines with full synthetic, and none have any oil consumption and three are diesel. And for almost a laugh, I use to change my oil far more often, but now after sending vehicles to the crusher with perfect engines, I don't change oil as often nowadays!
 

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Just to clarify what I meant by oil consumption will be higher with synthetic oil was only when it is used in a engine that has a problem will the consumption be higher. I made the statement because I was referring to the 16’s that had this issue. I too have never had any oil usage in a mechanically sound engine. In a motor that has a issue like valve seals, worn rings etc. it will consume more synthetic oil than conventional oil because synthetics penetrate so much better. I have seen this in cars that burned, used or leaked oil, that a synthetic would disappear 2-3 times faster.
 
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