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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought my Kodiak last November, and finally got it past 20 hours so ready for first service.

Stopped by my Dealer to setup an appointment, and while there asked how much? They told me the first service runs around $500?!?

I checked the list of items in the first service and most of it is purely a visual inspection with exception of oil change & valve check. Is a valve check really necessary on these newer motors at only 20 hrs? I can do all the visual stuff and an oil change myself but don't want to run afoul of the Warranty if the valves don't get checked (above my pay/skill grade to do myself).

Any thoughts on this? Would rather put that $500 to something more fun than giving to the dealer just to walk around my rig and say "Yep, looks good".
 

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I wouldn't pay 500$. but that's because I do everything myself and don't trust stealerships...
 
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Do it all yourself the oil change and the valve check. Download a service manual and you will find it is pretty easy. Go to servicemanualwarehouse.com and download it for $20
 

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JKinPa, the dealer told my wilfe to call them after 6 tanks of gas and they will come pick it up for the initial service.The price ?400bucks and it is the only service they will do ,The warranty is only as good as the dealer but I think they can void your warranty if you dont let them do the first service.maybe not.
 

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The valve check is what drives the price up, there is quite a bit of labor go get to them in order to check them with a feeler gauge.

A lot don't bother with it and as long as your Kodiak is running fine I don't think that it is really needed. I myself skipped it. I had a 2000 Kodiak 400 where they said that they needed to check the valves but after 7 years and who knows how many miles it was still running fine when I sold it.

I second the advise to get a service manual. You can download one off of the internet and then print pages or instructions as you need. That is what I do and then when I am done with the page I'll place it into a binder for future use.

If you do do it yourself just pay attention to the fluids that are required to go back into it. The final gear oil is one that you need to pay attention to as far as specifics of the oil. It needs to be GL4 rated, this rating includes a friction modifier that is needed by the wet clutches for the brakes. Yamaha sells a fluid for that but I just use a synthetic rear end oil that is GL4 rated. The same oil can be used in the front end or you can just put some regular gear oil into it, your choice.

On doing the work I like to remove the skid plates. It make getting to the drain plugs a lot easier along with the oil filter without making a mess all over the plates. There are only a few bolts holding them on and they can be removed fairly quickly. However if you do remove them pay attention to what bolts go where. There are shoulders on the bolts, some short and some are longer and while you can swap them around they won't fit right.

I would also imagine that your coolant level will be down a little bit. At least every one that I have ever looked at has been. It's like they fill it and forget it not thinking that it takes a while for the whole cooling system to fill up.

On the air filter unless you live and ride in a real dusty area you may be able to skip it on the first maintenance. I skipped cleaning and reoiling mine on the first two but my upcoming maintence I'll pull it and clean and reoil it.

There are also 4 zert fittings that need to be greased on the rear end. The factory ones are straight but I changed mine out to angled ones to make it easier to get to.

Anymore questions just ask away.
 

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JKinPa, the dealer told my wilfe to call them after 6 tanks of gas and they will come pick it up for the initial service.The price ?400bucks and it is the only service they will do ,The warranty is only as good as the dealer but I think they can void your warranty if you dont let them do the first service.maybe not.
They can't void the warranty if you don't want them to do the work.

However keep all of your receipts for oil, filter, and what ever else you purchase for the maintenance and make sure that the fluids that you use meet Yamaha's specifications.

I only had the 6 month factory warranty so I really didn't care.
 

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19 Kodiak SE, Backcountry Blue, 27” Reptiles, 1” wheel spacers, 20* weights, shims, purple spring
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That seems really high. I let the dealer do mine. Oil, filter, front dif fluid, rear dif fluid, adjust valves, and align the wheels. $350.
 

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The warranty will let ANYBODY do the work?My wife bought the 4yr extended warranty, so I can't assume anything.The 1st service is the only one ill let them do. I do the same with my trucks.The dealer does 1st service..
 

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I've self-performed all service to both our 700's (2016). I've never checked the valves, just changed oil and air filters and lube the few fittings these quads have.

I do plan on changing the diff oils soon...it's been 4 years.
 

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That rear diff oil is the key, got to be for rated. It's needs the friction modifier. This is the only oil that I just go to the dealer for, it was $8 for a liter/quart, and you can do front and rear with it and still have a bit left over.
Now myself, for the engine oil I use shell Rotella 5w40 that is jaso ma/ma2 rated for wet clutch. I buy a 5gal pail, cheaper that way, and lasts a few changes. I also use a Wix oil filter.

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Thats good timing I was thinking of getting some of all the fluids the machine needs.I was going to get Yamaha everything.Good idea,Bad idea??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm, maybe i'll put this off for a winter project. Does't get too much use so maybe I can stretch it out and save a few $$$
 

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Bought my Kodiak last November, and finally got it past 20 hours so ready for first service.

Stopped by my Dealer to setup an appointment, and while there asked how much? They told me the first service runs around $500?!?

I checked the list of items in the first service and most of it is purely a visual inspection with exception of oil change & valve check. Is a valve check really necessary on these newer motors at only 20 hrs? I can do all the visual stuff and an oil change myself but don't want to run afoul of the Warranty if the valves don't get checked (above my pay/skill grade to do myself).

Any thoughts on this? Would rather put that $500 to something more fun than giving to the dealer just to walk around my rig and say "Yep, looks good".
I know this is an older thread, but just to let you know, I priced the first service on my 2021 and it's around $300 Can, or about $250 US. I asked what was done and they indicated just fluid changes and inspection, but no valve clearance check. As I assumed, like all other manufactures these days, the valves really don't get adjusted until they cause issues.or.much later in than us recommended in the service manual. That's why I am bringing mine in for the first service, so if anything goes wrong afterwards, they can't say I didn't adjust the valves, because that should have been on their list to check.
After that, I will perform the routine maintenance, unless it includes something I can't do, but the valve adjustment really isn't difficult at all, just a little time consuming to remove the covers. Service manual is all you need. I'd probably take it in for a brake fluid flush or coolant flush or something like that as opposed to a valve adjustment, thays how easy it really is.

Grease all your grease points and change fluids as recommended and you won't have any issues. I buy my oil and filter from the dealer, it costs a little mkre, but in most cases, the manual states to use it and they can argue this point in a warranty dispute, so why even bother with any potential hassel for a few dollars mkre on an oil change. Plus, then they habe a record you actually bought the stuff to perform the maintenance and the dates.
 

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2021 Kodiak 700 Stock 2019 Kodiak 450 1.5” lift on 27s 2018 Kodiak 450 Stock
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Bringing up an old thread again. I have two 450s (18 & 19) and a 700 on the way. I called the service counter when the 450s had about 200 miles on them. He said they wouldn’t check the valves unless it was running poorly. I brought up driveline fluids too and he said there is no reason to change those yet. He said the engine oil maybe, but it was plenty early for that too. Well I changed the oil myself at that time then the diffs at 400 miles. All of it looked brand new still so I guess he was right. Then I changed the fluids in one of them at 440 miles. But that was because I sunk it. Lol that’s another story. I guess the point is he told me not to worry about the valves unless it runs poorly or becomes noisy.
 

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Got mine back from the first service last week with 200 miles on it. They changed oil and filter, differential oil, greased and oiled all moving parts and checked everything over. Only thing they didn't do was the valves, which I knew anyway. Cost me $250. Next one I'll be doing and not just because of the cost, but also because they caused a complete mess on my garage floor by not removing the skid plate to change the oil filter. All the old oil was spilled on top of the skid plate and ran out on my floor when I got the bike home. Plus, they didn't even use enough oil in the bike, it was only up to the add mark. If you want it done right...do it yourself.

The old oil looked like new, so I think you could easily go 500 miles or more before even looking at anything.
 

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No reason to remove the skid plate fit an oil change. If they spoiled oil, that's just a lazy tech in a rush. Oil will only drain from the center of the filter thanks to its oneway valve, if you leave the filter on until the oil has drained from the engine, there is very little in the filter. I lose about 3 or 4 drops, that's it. Easy to wipe with a rag.
It really blows my mind that they charge $300 to do a simple fluid change, and a visual inspection, all done in under 1hr.

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After the first oil change that I did I decided to pull the front skid plate from then on.

It is only 4 bolts and only takes a minute to do and then you can access the filter a lot easier and not worry about having to wipe up anything at all.

I already have my Kodiak up in the air anyway so why not? Even for the front and rear diff oil changes I'll pull the skid plates.
 

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I had at least a 1/4 litter of oil on my floor. Funny, there was none in the back of my truck after I picked up the bike, but I guess after running it down the ramps when I unloaded it at home, the oil ran back, found a hole in the skid plate and then out onto the floor. Was a little worried at first, because I thought they forgot to tighten the drain plug, but it was good and so was the filter. Plus,, could tell it was used oil and not brand new.

I mostly only went for the first service to protect the warranty, I'll do my own oil changes and checks from now on. When it gets to the point I need brakes flushed or coolant flushed, maybe I'll take it again, but oil and filter and just greasing a few things, definitely not worth the hassle to bring it to a dealer and pay nearly $300 for a mess.

I downloaded a service manual, so I can do all my own work. I habe owned Harleys for years and do all my own work on those, the shop service manual is worth its weight in gold.
 

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It kind of sounds like your filter is leaking. I would keep an eye on the oil level for a while until you can verify that it stays put.
 

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Mine did that, and it was the crush washer. It just dripped into the skid plate until I had a good mess. Keep an eye on it. It could be more than spilled oil.
 
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