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Discussion Starter #1
I do alot of starting and stopping limbing trees, creating alot of piles of limbs then having to pull ahead when chipping the piles so i start the engine and stop it multiple times in a day. I have gone through 4 starter celenoids and one starter in 4 years.

Anyway yesterday the starter celinoid went out i put in a new one, so it turns over now but runs briefly then dies. I am not sure if its related but I may have run the fuel low at the same time. My west highland terrier sits on my glove box and rides which hides my view of the low fuel gauge. So I may have run it out of fuel.

Looking at Ytube videos I found a guy that had a similar problem and he had a plugged fuel injector.

Any ideas?
Dennis
 

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Be alot cheaper for you and much easier on the starter age engine to just let the bike idle.


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Can you start it at 1/2 throttle and rev it up? The start-die sequence is normal operation during cold weather, but typically the 2nd time it runs fine. If you sucked the tank dry and think you pulled some dirt in, an injector cleaner additive should work fine IF you can get it to run enough to pull it through the injector. If it’s too dirty to run, you might have to clean it manually.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you start it at 1/2 throttle and rev it up? The start-die sequence is normal operation during cold weather, but typically the 2nd time it runs fine. If you sucked the tank dry and think you pulled some dirt in, an injector cleaner additive should work fine IF you can get it to run enough to pull it through the injector. If it’s too dirty to run, you might have to clean it manually.
I had finally given up and taken it in for service. It would repeatedly die numberous times however I did not try it at half throttle I did try to try to rev it but that did not work. I would have tried to get the injector out and clean it myself but was really hesitant the two top screws would not budge on the rod the injector is attatched too and the screw drives I had were not adedquate to do the job plus I don't even know if those top two screws between the numbers in fact made it come apart. also don't know how the orange gismo detatches from the fuel bar. I would be very curious if someone could tell how to proceed removing the bar and injector without messing things up a utube video would be extremely helpful. I have been trying to teach myself everything since owning this machine there is a learning curve to just getting the side and top covers off as well as the jocky box. I have over time taught myself to change oil and sarter and starter celenoids but not to adventurous changing cooling fluid. If I could get the injector out there are plenty of utube videos on cleaning it. Once your brave enough to do something the first time it is very easy the second.

I also appreciate the idea of just leaving it running all the time but it would not be practical in my case as I chip pile after pile of fir limbs and would end up leaving it running 3 or 4 hours straight. That is why I pull ahead to the next pile and simply turn it off each time. Celinoids are inexpensive online and now that I have replaced the started after trying to get it out of that hole I could easily change on in 10 minutes the first time I didn't even know how to get the side panels and glove box off.

9556
 

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Sorry I can’t help on the injectors. But I completely understand the learning curve!! This is my 1st ATV, and it’s is nothing like previous toys! And a trail-side breakdown is my responsibility. Lots to learn still...
 

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Don't buy cheap starter solenoids. Changing 4 solenoids is not normal

Hope your issues get resolved soon! Good luck.
 

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You really should be using only OEM parts on your bike for anything engine, electronics, braking, suspension, bearings, etc. You did mention that solenoids are cheap, so I'm assuming cheap is referring to non-OEM parts as those are the only solenoids that come up which are cheap to purchase. Problem is you will get what you pay for. However, obviously the first solenoid that went bad and the starter that went bad were OEM.

Curious if you have some sort of over voltage situation going on by way of a bad rectifier? Additionally, there have been reports of a batch of starters on 2016 Grizzly/Kodiak 700s where the magnets have de-bonded but that would not have anything to do with a solenoid going bad. But that could explain why your starter went.

I personally see nothing you are doing as wrong with your explanation of starting/stopping, needing to move your Kodiak to the next area for limbing. OEM part break-downs online do not depict a pre-filter on the fuel pump starting in 2016. Does anyone know if there is a fuel filter somewhere else, because seems like there should be?

EDIT: Ha, @Vincent beat me to the mention about cheap parts (solenoids).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You really should be using only OEM parts on your bike for anything engine, electronics, braking, suspension, bearings, etc. You did mention that solenoids are cheap, so I'm assuming cheap is referring to non-OEM parts as those are the only solenoids that come up which are cheap to purchase. Problem is you will get what you pay for. However, obviously the first solenoid that went bad and the starter that went bad were OEM.

Curious if you have some sort of over voltage situation going on by way of a bad rectifier? Additionally, there have been reports of a batch of starters on 2016 Grizzly/Kodiak 700s where the magnets have de-bonded but that would not have anything to do with a solenoid going bad. But that could explain why your starter went.

I personally see nothing you are doing as wrong with your explanation of starting/stopping, needing to move your Kodiak to the next area for limbing. OEM part break-downs online do not depict a pre-filter on the fuel pump starting in 2016. Does anyone know if there is a fuel filter somewhere else, because seems like there should be?

EDIT: Ha, @Vincent beat me to the mention about cheap parts (solenoids).
You really should be using only OEM parts on your bike for anything engine, electronics, braking, suspension, bearings, etc. You did mention that solenoids are cheap, so I'm assuming cheap is referring to non-OEM parts as those are the only solenoids that come up which are cheap to purchase. Problem is you will get what you pay for. However, obviously the first solenoid that went bad and the starter that went bad were OEM.

Curious if you have some sort of over voltage situation going on by way of a bad rectifier? Additionally, there have been reports of a batch of starters on 2016 Grizzly/Kodiak 700s where the magnets have de-bonded but that would not have anything to do with a solenoid going bad. But that could explain why your starter went.

I personally see nothing you are doing as wrong with your explanation of starting/stopping, needing to move your Kodiak to the next area for limbing. OEM part break-downs online do not depict a pre-filter on the fuel pump starting in 2016. Does anyone know if there is a fuel filter somewhere else, because seems like there should be?

EDIT: Ha, @Vincent beat me to the mention about cheap parts (solenoids).
Well I agree OEM parts are generally going to be better i had to try though $50 OEM vs $8 each is a big difference. unless of course it did damage my system and caused the none starting issue. I guess when the shop diagnoses it it may be very clear I should have used OEM parts I will keep you guys posted.

The first selinoid lasted a couple years, the second OEM lasted about a year. You have to understand that is about the time I started limbing 4000 trees they are planted 10 ft apart as are the piles of limbs that end up belt high. So when your limbing 20 trees a day that is a lot of starting and stopping both for limbing and then coming back and chipping. So things wear out. I will tell you this my Yamaha Kodiak is a work horse. I pull a 600 pound mower around between the trees two or three times a year and it always is pulling a trailer with a generator and compressor in it, a log spitter, a DR 18 hp chipper. It has power to spare. I did buy the lowest priced Kodiak and added a winch and ITT mud light oversized tires and Aluminum Wheels, a heavy duty Grizzly hitch and hour meter. and a West Highland Terrier. lol
9561

You really should be using only OEM parts on your bike for anything engine, electronics, braking, suspension, bearings, etc. You did mention that solenoids are cheap, so I'm assuming cheap is referring to non-OEM parts as those are the only solenoids that come up which are cheap to purchase. Problem is you will get what you pay for. However, obviously the first solenoid that went bad and the starter that went bad were OEM.

Curious if you have some sort of over voltage situation going on by way of a bad rectifier? Additionally, there have been reports of a batch of starters on 2016 Grizzly/Kodiak 700s where the magnets have de-bonded but that would not have anything to do with a solenoid going bad. But that could explain why your starter went.

I personally see nothing you are doing as wrong with your explanation of starting/stopping, needing to move your Kodiak to the next area for limbing. OEM part break-downs online do not depict a pre-filter on the fuel pump starting in 2016. Does anyone know if there is a fuel filter somewhere else, because seems like there should be?

EDIT: Ha, @Vincent beat me to the mention about cheap parts (solenoids).
quad.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will say if you buy a new one the base Kodriak like mine is the way to go and add the features you want. If I were to buy a new one I would add boot to protect the rubber boots because as careful as I am about running over things in the forest I have put holes in two boots over 4 years would have been much cheaper to add protection plastic or not. Other than that the think has been bullet proof till now really. I guess when the shop tells me the non starting issue it may or may not confirm usage of cheap selinoids. If you push the starter button and nothing happens or it starts responding slowly to starting when pushing it. Or it starts not responding to pushing it. Bank on it being your starter 5 minute repair. The starter is another issue the first time I did it had to look at alot of you tube videos because I had never had the plastics off and had no clue on how to even do that. Once I opened it up I thought oh my god how am I ever going to get at that without pulling the entire exaust system off the left side. I came across a video that showed a guy with a small socket set and the patience to carefully jockey it out of that tight space. Now I could reach in there and change one in 10 minutes without taking the exaust system appart.

For those newbies like me to take the plastics off the sides you have to take the top glove box loose first remove the four screws under the lid of the glove box first. Then you will find two bolts on the side of that piece of plastic in front of the handle bars, take each bolt on each side out. Those two hoses going through the holes on each side actually pull straight out they are not connected to any thing. You will find two black unusual looking plastic round top pull pins on the seat end of the plastic jocky box lid (Tank Cover if there was such) You simply get your finger nails under the lip and pull up that releases the pin and they come straight out. At that point the lid is free and you ease forward and up carefully and you will see the side panel notches disingage to the jocky box lid, Then the sides just lift up and out.

I did find a utube video that had the same starting issue as mine identically and it was a plugged fuel injector. I think I may have run it out of fuel at the same time the selinoid went out so even though it was easy to get at I didn't feel comfortable trying to remove it someone should make a video. I will update when the shop informs me what actually was the problem.
 

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One thing for you on parts. 99% of the parts that fit the upper levels will fit the base model. The receiver hitch and the CV boot protectors are just bolt on for the base model.

About the only thing that isn't bolt on is the headlight and gauge assembly from the upper levels.

If you want a diff lock look at 501parts.com Their kit either electric or manual lever is something that most backyard mechanics can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for the input, I usually just leave the cabled 4x4 lever in 4 wheel drive for my usage, I rarely put it in 2 wheel udrive. Mine is the very basic model all I could afford but I guess the less fancy attachments the fewer problems, never regreted the purchase. But I am older now and dreaming of the Grizzly XRT love the wheels and tires but has all the extra options that may cause more service issues down the road you would have to tell me. Is it just more to break?
 

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I am curious as well. Mine is not wanting to crank when button is pushed. New solenoid and starter.
Yours is going to be something totally different. Make sure that the kill switch in in the run position, also try starting in neutral or with the rear hand brake lever engaged.

Here is a diagram on what is evolved with the starting circuit as far as the starter is concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok so the service people called me and informed me why my quad will fire up then die within 3 seconds. I am awarded the stupidity prize of the year. I had a starter solenoid go bad and replaced it and due to my own stupidity I apparently got the two wires backwards when I reconnected the new starter solenoid. So it was not a pluged fuel injector because I thought I had run it out of gas. Yes I am the guy with the forest and the stop and go guy who is now on his fourth starter solenoid. I cannot believe I was so stupid as to do this. So much for saving yourself money by working on things yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had started thinking about the installation of the selinoid I bought on Amazon. I had bought the first replacememt for $8.95 and researched the sellers feedback. It had worked ok so I bought the second one on Amazon without remembering who I had bought the first one from. The second was $10.95 and I didn't bother to look at the feedback on the seller at the time.

Now when I put the most recent selinoid in (10.95) I was careful to make sure I installed it the same way even took a picture to be sure I would not forget. So I know I put it in the same way and hooked it up the same way.

The service guy said I had the two wires backwards and they switched the wires. And they had it running. I got to thinking about this and went back to Amazon and found the person I bought it from and read his feedback and sure enough to my surprise he had terrible feedback and it was stated in the feedback that the selinoid was causing all kinks of problems- BECAUSE THE POLES WERE BACKWARDS!!!!!!! ON THE Selinoid. People clearliy stating do not buy this product I quit reading the feedback after 10 or so all warning the poles were backwards and many who torched their batteries. So like those who said use OEM stuff they do not lie. I did find the original $8.95 seller and his feedback was excellent and he had sold alot to specific Kodiak 700 owners. So I may yet try an $8.95 one stupid as I may be. I am thinking I should get that reversed pole one out of the quad asap. I will update what happens down the road if I have yet screwed up again.
 

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Knowing how a relay works I can't see how swapping the two main terminals on it could cause your problems. I even looked at the starter relay schematic and all you have is power coming in on one terminal and one going to the starter on the other terminals.

You have to look at a relay as just a switch that is operated electronically and it could care less which contact has the power and which one goes to the load.

I looked at mine and it is wired like this attachment shows. Two large wires connected together going to one terminal, one of these wires comes from the battery and the other goes to the main fuse box. Then one large black wire going to the starter.

Now if for some reason yours has separate wires coming from the battery terminal then I can understand it just running with the starter engaged.

Here is also a picture of mine. You can see the two red wires going to the one terminal and the single wire that goes down to the starter.

On the schematic

#6 is the battery

#8 is the starter relay

#10 is the starter.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I am confused now. I had just talked to him on the phone so maybe I am confused what they did I will confirm when I go pick it up what they did do in fact. The bogus chinese starter selinoid must be connected to the problem some how but they didnt replace it and I will compare your wireing to what mine looks like now. I do know I was in the forest when all the problems started. I pushed the started button and nothing happened then I took my pruning shears and touched the two poles on the selinoid with the key on and it started. I therefore assumed it was the starter selinoid that was bad I had the $10.95 spare on hand installed it and then it started that business of it would fire but die shortly after. I did at times trie to give it gas to keep it running but it would die within 2 or 3 seconds. Yamaha service said I had some wires crossed but all I did was change the selinoid. I thought I had run out of gas initially because my gas light was on before I took it in for service when I gave up I did dump some sea foam in the tank thinking maybe there was some water in the tank. So by the time service got around to it the sea foam had been in the tank about five days. I will confirm what they did when I go in and get back to you. I am curious what my selinoid compartmant wiring looks like to yours now if they did indeed swich the poles. The feedback on amazon said with the replacement selinoid had the poles backwards which whould make sense if they simply switched the poles in the connection when service got it running. When I look it should be backwards to yours.

thank you for sending the picture of yours!!!!!
 

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It will be interesting to actually see just what they did to get it running.

But like I said that relay or what is on the load side of it could care less how it is wired as long as the two wires that have power all the time always have power all the time.

You could of indeed of had it go bad when you were out riding but a loose connection is more likely.

Sometimes electrical problems are the hardest to solve or really explain why it happened.
 

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Interesting development in this thread.
 
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