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2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 EPS SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks.
Yesterday my wife was idling up a two track road on our place and she said the atv just stopped running.

I went up to start it or tow it. I check to see if she had maybe accidentally pushed over the stop switch. She had not. So since the Yuasa battery in it is the original I figured it was likely the battery that quit. Coincidentally just this week I was in the process of looking to get a replacement battery for it.

We I got the machine back to the headquarters I tried to start it. It would turn over but not start. I did not hear the fuel pump run when I keyed it on. The lights would work, the winch would run, however the display screen did not show any info with the exception of the EPS light does turn on.

So I thought maybe the battery just didnt have enough juice to run the fuel pump or start it.

I checked the battery and it seem like the positive lead on the terminal was loose. I removed the battery and put it on a charger. It charged at 3 amps in a matter of an hour or so. I put it back in the machine and tried to start it. I did not hear the fuel pump run like it usually does. I checked the battery voltage and it was 12.83 volts at rest. I suppose it could still be bad because I have not load tested it.

I have a new battery coming today to replace the old battery.

If the new battery doesn't get the machine to start, if I do not hear the fuel pump run when I key it on and if the display screen doesn't show any info, what might the next thing to check?

I thought fuses in case the loose positive lead/terminal being loose did something. The lead/terminal doesn't have any marks on it so I do not think it was arcing.

Is there a fuse that operates the fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When checking the fuses if there is a bad one will it look black or burned?
I cant figure how to get the lid off the fuse box.
Is there a secret hand shake for it?
 

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I think that you just need to work at getting the lid off, I's been a while since I took mine off.

I'll use a test light to verify fuses, touch each exposed piece of it on each end. If I question it I'll pull the fuse out and use a ohm meter to verify. If you don't have a ohm meter but do have a test light you can always hook your test light to the positive of the battery and while touching one of the spade part of the fuse touch the other end to a ground.
 

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When checking the fuses if there is a bad one will it look black or burned?
I cant figure how to get the lid off the fuse box.
Is there a secret hand shake for it?
Always check fuses with a multimeter or a test light. Visually they can sometimes look fine but are actually blown when tested.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you fellers. I was going to pull out the fuel pump fuse as per No. 5 on Jim's pdf. Do the fuses have a clear plastic cover on them that needs to be removed first? I cant get it out with my fingers, Do you use a needle nose? I just dont want to break it.
 

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Fuses are pretty robust.

I can't remember if they are a larger blade type or the mini type. I would use some pliers that have a wider surface to pull it out instead of needle nose.

But you can check in while it is in place with either a test light or a multi meter. On the part that you can see on each end you can see a tab, this is the test point that you can put the meter or test light probe onto to see if it is good or not.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Jim. Its a pretty good size fuse. Maybe larger blade type you spoke of. Ill see if I can get that figured out.
 

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RR made a good point on the battery.

I know that my diesel truck will shut down if the battery gets lower than 10 volts. The computer just won't turn on at a low voltage.

It used to be that you could run a vehicle until the battery was quite low but anymore with the electronics the batteries need to be up to working voltage.

After you have the new battery in you need to check and see if it is charging properly. With a volt meter you should see just above 14 volts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the great info fellers. I got a Striker battery today but the way the posts were designed on it the ATV connectors wouldn't mount to them. So I took it back and had to order a battery. It won't be in till Friday or next week.

I won't know much till I get a new battery installed. I will post back when I get it installed.

I sure hope it's just the battery.
Be well fellers.
 

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Did you try charging up the old one?

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Did you try charging up the old one?

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I did Jim and I think it was a good battey. But since it was 5 years old I decided to replace it.

So to follow up...

Today I put a new battery in the machine. It acts the same way as with the old battery.

When keyed on the screen will light up but it doesn't display any information.

I do not hear the fuel pump run.

It will turn over but not start. The lights and winch for example do run.

I hear clicking noise when first keyed on. I placed my finger on the object it to confirm, it looks like it might be a relay clicking on the right side of the machine. I have attached a photo. When first keyed on one clicks the other doesn't make any noise.

So... I keyed the machine on and check the fuses in the fuse box. To get the fuse box open you push in on a tab on the back side of the box and lift it open. I placed the negative terminal of the multimeter on the negative post of the battery. I then placed the positive terminal on each fuse and checked both sides of the fuse for voltage.

They all read 12.X volts except the three, 10, 20 and 15 amp fuses along the bottom row which read zero volts. I have attached a photo. I removed the fuses and they look like they are good.

I have not checked the fuel pump fuse because I can not figure out how to get the what looks like a plastic cover on it, off and the spare on the other side of the terminal has what looks like to be the same kinda plastic cover on it. I would appreciate any tips on how to get it off. See attached photo.

Does it make sense that 3 fuses would go bad at once or is it more likely something upstream of these fuses is bad?

Please let me know your thoughts on what to do next folks.
 

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The three on the bottom row are spares. I'm not sure on just what the relay controls that you fell clicking but if there is just a single click when you turn the key on it may be powering something down the line like the ECU.

With everything that you are saying I would suspect the ECU. It controls a lot of items on the Kodiak including the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The three on the bottom row are spares. I'm not sure on just what the relay controls that you fell clicking but if there is just a single click when you turn the key on it may be powering something down the line like the ECU.

With everything that you are saying I would suspect the ECU. It controls a lot of items on the Kodiak including the fuel pump.
Thank you Jim for your kind and helpful thoughts.

On the parts diagram there is a slow blow fuse part number JR9-82151-00-00, https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2016/kodiak-700-eps-4wd-se-yfm70kpsgb/electrical-1

Do you know how I might check it to see if it is good?

There is a Rectifier/DIODE 3WP-81980-00-00 that I do not know how to check to see if it is working as intended.

I saw a prior post of yours where you suggested checking to see if there is power to the ECU and spark at the plug. Can you tell me how I might do that?

If I need to replace the ECU do you know if that means I will loose the data like how many hours and miles are on the machine?

So... are you thinking I should haul this to my atv shop guy and quit bugging ya?
 

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I'm nowhere near to my repair manual on my computer so I can't help that much but.

A slow blow fuse is just a fuse, but instead of blowing as soon as there is a short it takes a bit longer. You can test them with a volt meter with power applied or a ohm meter.

A diode only passes voltage in one direction so without getting into electrical theory you can test it with a ohm meter. Place the meter leads on each side of it and see if you hav continuity, if nothing reverse the leads. It is best to test it when it is removed.

On the stored memory of the meter, the hours and such should be stored in the meter but I don't have the fancy Kodiak but just the base model and couldn't really tell you

As for taking it to the shop, sometimes that is the best thing to do. Dealers have the Yamaha diagnostic tool where they may be worth what you pay them to fix it. Us common folk can't purchase that diagnostic tool.

One thing that you might consider if you really want to work on your Kodiak is getting a repair manual to use. I got mine off of Ebay for about $20 with a instant download to my computer. The manual that I have is from Tech Spark I believe

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your issue sounds battery related based on the pod not lighting up. Just got back from a trip where the same thing happened but to a 2015 Grizzly 700. Before installing your new battery, cut a very short piece of tubing to shove under the battery nut, see this video for details:

Never lose your battery bolts again! Yuasa Bikemaster Batteries Plus Interstate
RedRocket the display lights up. It just doesnt display any data and the engine will turn over, winch will run, lights come on. I do not however, hear the fuel pump run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I'm nowhere near to my repair manual on my computer so I can't help that much but.

A slow blow fuse is just a fuse, but instead of blowing as soon as there is a short it takes a bit longer. You can test them with a volt meter with power applied or a ohm meter.

A diode only passes voltage in one direction so without getting into electrical theory you can test it with a ohm meter. Place the meter leads on each side of it and see if you hav continuity, if nothing reverse the leads. It is best to test it when it is removed.

On the stored memory of the meter, the hours and such should be stored in the meter but I don't have the fancy Kodiak but just the base model and couldn't really tell you

As for taking it to the shop, sometimes that is the best thing to do. Dealers have the Yamaha diagnostic tool where they may be worth what you pay them to fix it. Us common folk can't purchase that diagnostic tool.

One thing that you might consider if you really want to work on your Kodiak is getting a repair manual to use. I got mine off of Ebay for about $20 with a instant download to my computer. The manual that I have is from Tech Spark I believe

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Thank you Jim. I appreciate the idea for the manual. And thank you for the vendor/brand recommendation as well. I looked for some manuals on ebay but was concerned about getting one that is "good". So Ill look for the Tech Spark brand manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Update...
I have ordered replacements for the 5 relays and 2 replacements for the two 40 amp slow blow fuses. One of the two fuses showed green on the wire that you can see from the top of the fuse and the wire in the other looked sorta corroded. I had to use a magnifying glass to look at them...I am getting too old I guess.

Maybe I'll get lucky and only have to pay $76.00 for those parts and not $700 for an ECU which I am told there currently are none in the USA.

I am told the only way to to troubleshoot the ECU is for the dealer to do it while it is on the machine.

"Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment." -Bix Bender

P.S.
FYI, the folks at Partzilla.com are GREAT! Super nice and knowledgeable. A feller by the name of George helped me alot. Super kind.
 
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