[RedRocket]

Your Kodiak should be able to run without the stator output connector (has 3 A.C. wires) plugged in, as displayed in the first video. Even if the stator was not functioning, that shouldn't cause your current issue unless those A.C. wires were compromised and grounding out on the frame or engine case. The second plug "attached" to that stator cable set is the CPS and that does need to be connected as the engine will not even attempt to start without that signal. Not sure if you've gone through the partzilla videos, there are two that may help to get an idea of what may be going on with your machine. Also, since you have the 708cc, that is a different stator part number than the 686cc stator. Since the 708cc was only around for 3 years in the Kodiak/Grizzly, kind of not surprising RM Stator and Ricky Stator don't have a 3rd party version.

Yes, partzilla is using a first generation Grizzly 700 in these videos but a lot of the troubleshooting should be identical or very close to the same for your Kodiak. The obvious difference will be that you don't have a display for codes.

 

[Coder]

Your Kodiak should be able to run without the stator output connector (has 3 A.C. wires) plugged in, as displayed in the first video. Even if the stator was not functioning, that shouldn't cause your current issue unless those A.C. wires were compromised and grounding out on the frame or engine case. The second plug "attached" to that stator cable set is the CPS and that does need to be connected as the engine will not even attempt to start without that signal. Not sure if you've gone through the partzilla videos, there are two that may help to get an idea of what may be going on with your machine. Also, since you have the 708cc, that is a different stator part number than the 686cc stator. Since the 708cc was only around for 3 years in the Kodiak/Grizzly, kind of not surprising RM Stator and Ricky Stator don't have a 3rd party version.

Yes, partzilla is using a first generation Grizzly 700 in these videos but a lot of the troubleshooting should be identical or very close to the same for your Kodiak. The obvious difference will be that you don't have a display for codes.

The crank position sensor that makes sense, huskyracing did say that the frequency of the spark rediced after a couple of seconds of cranking? Ideally a scope would work better to check the health and existence of the sensor pulse output, you could use a fast multimeter to at least see the dc change? I wonder if just the sensor pickup can be changed? The stator coils might be fine?

 

[RedRocket]

I changed a failed stator on the 2007 Grizzly I had and the CPS was an included part, combined into the same wiring bundle. You also have to open up that part of the case, stator cover, so it is probably best to replace it all and I’m pretty sure you can’t buy the CPS by itself unless you go off and find out where the part can be individually sourced.
I wouldn’t be so certain the issue the OP is having would be the CPS failing… although I have no proof to support that. Typical of the reason for an error code 12 (CPS problem) being thrown is because of not enough amps in the circuit to feed the ECU signal from the CPS, thus not allowing a start because it appears the CPS is indicating the crankshaft is in the wrong position. But again, that is a non-start result and not the symptoms the OP seems to be having.
To me, everything the OP has checked and reported, seems to be some sort of an electrical issue… but what that is???

 

[Coder]

RedRocket I agree totally.

HuskyRacing, just curious, did you test the Stator like in the video? While holding the start button down(you may need someone else to help) the motor cranking should generate similar ac voltages across the stator windings, the 3 pin can be accessed right at the voltage regulator.

 

[Huskyracing]

RedRocket I agree totally.

HuskyRacing, just curious, did you test the Stator like in the video? While holding the start button down(you may need someone else to help) the motor cranking should generate similar ac voltages across the stator windings, the 3 pin can be accessed right at the voltage regulator.

I began my diagnosis by following the Ignition System Circuit Diagram in the Yamaha service manual, which clearly shows only the pick up coil(pulse coil, crank position sensor- whatever you want to call it) being activated in run. However you do need to have a supply of charge back to battery to keep the supplied current levels during and after start, along with a good working battery(new, in this case and holds appropriate charge and ability to sustain voltage during a Load Test). And yes , output is not only good as indicated by manual but by observation as per the video as well. I have "pinged" every wire/connector and switch in the Ignition System Circuit ( quite the exercise in patience). Everything to this point lead me to check impedance on the crank position sensor, again. I started by making several attempts to keep it running, barely, to warm it up per say , to see if readings changed.... understand it is almost futile to "feather the throttle'', to try and get it run ... it tends to backfire a lot and I don't want to risk possibly shearing flywheel key. My Initial Crank Position Sensor (cold) was 209 [ manual says 152-228] After several attempts to get some heat build up ,shut off motor and my ohm readings changed to 231. I let it sit overnight and the resistance fell back to 221 .Significant enough to suspect CPS. I found a stator assembly available through RICKSMOTORSPORTSELECTRICS.COM at a very reasonable price and I will replace flywheel key just for extra insurance from the constant testing "backfires"....I don't like throwing money at something to fix problem but I am expecting a good result ,fingers crossed, too!