Light Bar and How to Wire - Yamaha Kodiak 700 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Light Bar and How to Wire

So I have spent the last few days pouring through the old threads on what a lot have asked and said about light bars and how they have wired them. I know I need a light bar to add some light to all the night time work I have been doing. I have debated between a 12 and 20 inch bar and if I should to two pods with it. After figuring that out the next problem is how to wire these up. I think I will either wire all through a handle bar mounted switch, or I have thought about trying to splice them into my high beams to keep a clean handle bar look. Any thoughts and wire diagrams would be appreciated. also if I do a 12 inch I originally had thought about putting it just under my rack in front of my air intake but I see some feel that is bad idea.

2018 Kodiak 700 Hunter Edition EPS, 2005 Suzuki Eiger 400.

Last edited by pfchoffman; 01-03-2020 at 09:42 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 10:45 AM
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Which ever way you plan on going you should use a relay and a separate fuse for the lights.

You can use the high beam lights to activate the relay or if you want to be able to turn them on without the high beams just use a key on power source to activate the relay.

2016 Kodiak 700 base model with a few SE parts CV boot guards, receiver hitch, Grizzly bars. Trail Tech Striker speedometer/voltmeter. 501 Parts Electric Grabber locking diff
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 11:38 AM
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I put two 7 inch LED lights on my front rack extender. then I used the High Beam light wire for the 3rd EYE light from my handlebar pod to control a light relay that is stashed under my hood.. I did away with me 3rd light all together because I kept getting reflected light in my eyes from the 3rd light.... Bought all the parts on amazon.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 11:56 AM
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I got mine from Amazon on one of the black Friday deal things. I think it's a 20" bar, came with harness, relay, and switch.

The switch had the peal & stick on the back which is holding amazingly well.

The size of the bar is probably overkill...but this thing will absolutely light the night.

I'm getting ready to put a 4" light on the back...so I can see if I am backing over the mountain!

I like your idea of using the headlight switch though.
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2019 Kodiak 700 EPS SE
26" Maxxis Zilla's / Warn VRx Winch / Light Bar
UNI air filter / Strong Made Front & Rear Baskets
JBS 18g Clutch weights / 1 1/2" HDM Spacers
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 12:32 PM
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The bigger the bar, the more amps it draws. I wouldn't go more than 12 or 13" . In fact, mine is 7". It draws 3 amps and is plenty bright. I mounted the rocker switch just below display screen.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 01:32 PM
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Mad Max that is a really big light. But you have no trouble seeing at night... is your 3rd light still live?
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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So thoughts about putting light in front of Air intake? I can see the risk of reduced air but at same time air will still get in. I really want to splice it in to my bright switch, I just don't know how much I trust my splicing skills. Don't get me wrong I can pinch an artery or save a life but electrical Is not my strong point. and I wondered is a 12 going to make a big difference?
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffalochip View Post
Mad Max that is a really big light. But you have no trouble seeing at night... is your 3rd light still live?
Yep, still active. Usually though I have crap in the front basket that blocks it...that was the reason I added the bar!

2019 Kodiak 700 EPS SE
26" Maxxis Zilla's / Warn VRx Winch / Light Bar
UNI air filter / Strong Made Front & Rear Baskets
JBS 18g Clutch weights / 1 1/2" HDM Spacers
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-03-2020, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfchoffman View Post
So thoughts about putting light in front of Air intake? I can see the risk of reduced air but at same time air will still get in. I really want to splice it in to my bright switch, I just don't know how much I trust my splicing skills. Don't get me wrong I can pinch an artery or save a life but electrical Is not my strong point. and I wondered is a 12 going to make a big difference?
I would stay away from reducing any airflow. These things tend to get hot as it is. Don't be afraid of splicing the wires. Read up on how to do it until your comfortable with it. Unlike an artery or a life you can take your time.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-09-2020, 07:21 PM
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I just installed the 20 inch Nilight that I got off amazon. $32 bucks that included a wiring harness.

It was very straight forward. While I would have liked to wire to my high beams, I know that is way above my skill level.

Also, I drilled and attached it to my front rack. The attachment points are easily adjustable. I need it up high and out of the mud.

You will need a 3/4 inch hole cutter for On/Off switch.

I've had it in a lot of water and so far so good.

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