After the tuner was installed how much of a impact did it have on the machine running cooler ? The reason I ask, my son and I were up on the deer lease doing some work Saturday and going slow on the trails as not to tear them up and it just heats up so fast. Not left idling or anything like that. So how much of a difference have you noticed ?
The exhaust system and engine might run cooler, but the radiator fan is going to cycle often as these machines don't have much natural cooling, especially with slow machine speed, when there is little air coming into the radiator, without the fan boost. Your description is what mine does and yes it is hot, but not beyond design temps. I don't have a tuner, so I can not answer your specific question.
I know you are looking for feedback on 2016-18 engines, but my 2019 with the EHS controller and stock exhaust runs MUCH cooler. Not only is the plastic over the pipe cooler, but the fan, which used to run alot, now only comes on when riding hard. Hopefully this helps.
Well that is an interesting reply, so are you saying that a tuner would lead to a major reduction in heat output on this 708 engine? I know there are several forum members who feel like that is accurate, is that unanimous?
I've often read the same positive results with 708 owners and EHS tuners. Cooler running with more power.... just passing info, I have zero experience in it.
Bike should definitely run cooler with tuner, but your fan shouldn't really run any less. According to the manual, the fan comes on once engine reaches operating temperature. Many confuse this to overheating, when in fact, it's at optimum temp, the fan is just preventing it from rising to over temp range.
Thanks for the reply’s,
I know these 708’s run lean causing the machine to run hot. I have read a bunch of posts about the positive effects the tuner has had on others machines. Just wanted some first hand reviews from other kodiak owners
Sorry for late reply on this thread. I have the ehs tuner and AIS delete and block off kit, also ehs intake kit. Machine runs noticably cooler and power is noticably better. On my 708.
kody7oo Said "Sorry for late reply on this thread. I have the ehs tuner and AIS delete and block off kit, also ehs intake kit. Machine runs noticeably cooler and power is noticeably better. On my 708".
Does the engine kill after a cold start on a cold day one the tuner is installed?
What is the block off kit?
I will ask if this is easy to install yourselves? Any idea how long it takes, does it require programming. Anyone who would like to answer that would be great.
kody7oo Said "Sorry for late reply on this thread. I have the ehs tuner and AIS delete and block off kit, also ehs intake kit. Machine runs noticeably cooler and power is noticeably better. On my 708".
Does the engine kill after a cold start on a cold day one the tuner is installed?
What is the block off kit?
I will ask if this is easy to install yourselves? Any idea how long it takes, does it require programming. Anyone who would like to answer that would be great.[/QUOTE
TRW
A easy super cheap way to delete AIS is pull the hose off your air box ( left side front ) buy a appropriately sized nylon cap , slide cap onto the nipple on the air box and slide the hose back on over the cap. Pretty sure there’s a video or photos on the web if you google it.
The ehs programmer comes pre programmed for a stock machine and from what I have read it’s plug and play. One can make adjustments for after market exhaust etc. I’ll be ordering 2 soon for mine and the wife’s 700 .
I am also doing a diy clamp uni filter on mine and wife’s (if I remember right I paid like $10 for the aluminum mount and $20 for the uni filters) Actually just did the clamp on uni filter mod on my old 400 kodiak that my son rides now yesterday . as that has the same kinda crappy air filter mount . There are also videos of the filter mod out there ..
As far as starting. I usually still need to push the starter twice on cold start, seems to just be nature of the best. The random slow speed stalling is gone, the excessive heat is gone. Engine runs as it should. I highly recommend the EHS tuner and AIS delete at minimum, after that an airbox mod..
Hello you kodiak people. I just did the mods yall talkin about, i got the tuner, airbox mod with the pre filter, 1 into 2 barkers pipe ( it is loud ) after a short while i will get the quiet cores which also have the spark arresstors, i did all the mods myself. I purchased from ehs. If you are on a budget well this stuff wasnt cheap. Also had coop45 mill my moveable sheave, i also got the 18 gram rollers from ehs, ( i know for sure i paid to much for those ) stock rollers are 30 or 31 grams. Next week i will reinstall my sheave. Yall that are riding at sea level to about 3000 feet of elavation factory kodiaks run lean, i am mostly riding 5k to 8k and i have been running about rite.
what I'm wondering, to those of you with a lot of miles on a tuner, have you had any issues with the Catalytic Converter? Part of the reason they are set so lean at part throttle it to keep the catalyst above ~600* for both emissions and life of the Cat.
I don't have the specs but I can't see that the the Kodiak muffler has any catalytic converter functions at all. If it did I don't believe we would need an oxygen sensor unless we were going to use it to adjust the inputs, and I don't think we do. This is a very interesting question and someone knows for sure.
I looked at several on-line parts catalogs including the Yamaha website, and they all list it with this description: "MUFFLER COMP. 1" I'm definitely intrigued and would like to find more info on it.
There is no electronic connection to the cat like on cars and truck. Cars and truck have a O2 sensor and the Kodiak doesn't.
There is a name for the type of cat we have that I found when doing a little bit of research but I can't remember it
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