I swapped to 20g rollers! - Yamaha Kodiak 700 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Unread 08-23-2019, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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I swapped to 20g rollers!

Most know that the Kodiak comes with 30g rollers in the primary and I’ve seen many swap for 18g rollers. I decided to try the 20g roller found in the pre-16’ 700 grizzly and current Viking UTV clutches. I took some before and after videos so I could actually compare the differences and it’s quite noticeable. It’s hard to judge 0-30 since the numbers climb so fast but the 20g rollers had a 3mph advantage @ 40mph and hit 61mph at the end of the test strip where the stock 30g had only hit 59mph. I actually had to sit closer to the handlebars to keep the front tires on the ground while launching (pavement) with the 20g weights. Both sets gave a rev limited 63mph. It’s easier to wheelie now even though I have a winch than it was stock without a winch up front. I does seem that MPG went down a bit, but then again I was having quite a bit of fun with the newly found power!

19' Blue Kodiak SE

-Rox Riser/handlebar combo
-Reptile Radial 27x9/27x11 on stock SE wheels
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post #2 of 12 Unread 08-24-2019, 01:29 AM
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That's good info, thanks. My experience with the 18g weights is similar. I was expecting a lower mpg but haven't really noticed any.

2019 Yamaha Kodiak 700 EPS
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post #3 of 12 Unread 08-24-2019, 07:31 AM
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Good info, I am planning to do the 18g. What grease did you use?
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post #4 of 12 Unread 08-24-2019, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Good info, I am planning to do the 18g. What grease did you use?
I only have 500 miles on it so I just reused the factory grease for now as there was PLENTY in clutch. Hardest part of the job was getting the primary Nut broke loose, needed to use the 1/2” impact.

19' Blue Kodiak SE

-Rox Riser/handlebar combo
-Reptile Radial 27x9/27x11 on stock SE wheels
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post #5 of 12 Unread 08-26-2019, 01:15 PM
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Getting ready to do this same thing this week.

Did you torque the primary nut of just hit it with an impact gun? If you torqued the nut...how'd you hold the basket?

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post #6 of 12 Unread 08-26-2019, 04:43 PM
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Getting ready to do this same thing this week.

Did you torque the primary nut of just hit it with an impact gun? If you torqued the nut...how'd you hold the basket?
I've often read an impact can damage your one way bearing. Also many others have had their primary blow apart because of improper installations / torquing. I used a choked sling to hold my primary sheave. Seen many people make a simple clamp with two peices of wood and two threaded rods. Torque spec is 100 ft/lbs

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 08-26-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Unread 08-27-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Vincent View Post
I've often read an impact can damage your one way bearing. Also many others have had their primary blow apart because of improper installations / torquing. I used a choked sling to hold my primary sheave. Seen many people make a simple clamp with two peices of wood and two threaded rods. Torque spec is 100 ft/lbs
Yeah, I am a believer in proper torque! A friend of mine loaned me his Motion Pro clutch basket holder tool yesterday, will probably put my weights in tonight or tomorrow evening.

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post #8 of 12 Unread 08-27-2019, 10:21 AM
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Yeah, I am a believer in proper torque! A friend of mine loaned me his Motion Pro clutch basket holder tool yesterday, will probably put my weights in tonight or tomorrow evening.
Awesome! Make sure keep pressure between the cam plate and movable sheave when installing. Otherwise your weights can fall out, and you ll need to start the entire job all over again. ( This is a very commun mistake!). When torquing make sure your belt is loose otherwise your actually pitching the belt and not torquing the nut. At the end your belt needs to be all the way up the secondary and all the way down your primary sheave. Then you know your good to go! Good luck!

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 08-27-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Unread 08-27-2019, 03:02 PM
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Thanks for the tips Vincent!

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post #10 of 12 Unread 08-28-2019, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Getting ready to do this same thing this week.

Did you torque the primary nut of just hit it with an impact gun? If you torqued the nut...how'd you hold the basket?

I only used the impact to remove the nut, It was on so tight from the factory that even a ratchet strap looped around it and a breaker bar wouldn't budge it. It was twisting the motor mounts so much I didn't want to put a pipe on the bar! I'd guess the nut was torqued over 250# by how long it took impact to get it loose. Going back on it was pretty easy to torque to the proper spec with a piece of 2x4 wedged between the frame and clutch fin using my long handle 1/2" torque wrench.
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