CV boot - Yamaha Kodiak 700 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-27-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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CV boot

Anybody have a boot replaced? My 700 has a torn one on the left side next to diff. Wondering what I can expect in terms of hours/cost to replace. Looks beyond my capabilities.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-28-2019, 01:53 AM
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I haven't replaced one but to pull the axle you need to pull the A arm off. But it isn't too bad of a job, it just takes time. I would guess that you are looking at 4 hours shop time at the minimum.

If you go to 501 Parts web site and look at their how too's on installing their locking diff kit you will see what needs to be done to get the axle out.

https://youtu.be/tlE4-R_zGcg

2016 Kodiak 700 base model with a few SE parts CV boot guards, receiver hitch, Grizzly bars. Trail Tech Striker speedometer/voltmeter. 501 Parts Electric Grabber locking diff
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-28-2019, 02:42 AM
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I'm taking it for granted that it is on the front.

But the rear would be about the same.

2016 Kodiak 700 base model with a few SE parts CV boot guards, receiver hitch, Grizzly bars. Trail Tech Striker speedometer/voltmeter. 501 Parts Electric Grabber locking diff
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-28-2019, 09:52 AM
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I've replaced one of my rear outer boots before. It's a dirty job and it takes a bit of patients but it can be done. I simply YouTube it. Look under Grizzly or Kodiak as the steps are all the same.
Make sure therouly clean out all the old contaminated grease and repack with fresh.
The front axles are trickier to remove as you need to separate 3 ball joints per side.

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 01-28-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-30-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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I was quoted anywhere from 1.5 -2 hours labor plus parts. Watched many videos on how to do it. I like Partzilla videos the best. Ended up pulling the axle (front right) and taking it to closest dealer. Pulling it was pretty straight forward. The dealer is going to replace the boot for 40 dollars, that's labor and boot. I can live with that.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-30-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbo View Post
I was quoted anywhere from 1.5 -2 hours labor plus parts. Watched many videos on how to do it. I like Partzilla videos the best. Ended up pulling the axle (front right) and taking it to closest dealer. Pulling it was pretty straight forward. The dealer is going to replace the boot for 40 dollars, that's labor and boot. I can live with that.
Happy things things are working out for ya.

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-30-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Kinda frustrating that the dealers lay off most of their mechanics around here in the winter. Will be 3-4 days to replace a boot on an axle that's pulled from the machine. Still, gives me time for other maintenance oil change etc.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-31-2019, 12:03 AM
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I had both fronts get torn. One of my axles got damaged and it was cheap to buy complete set of aftermarket half shafts off ebay so I used one of the new axles, and I also bought a CV boot and grease for the other one and saved one of the new axles as a spare.
The front axle removal is one of the easiest I've seen, and you don't need to remove much at all.
Break the lugs loose, jack it up, take off the tire, remove the hub nut with air, disconnect the lower ball joint and pop it loose, turn and then lift the upper arm by hand, bump the end of the axle with a clean rubber or dead blow hammer, then you can pull the axle out of the hub, then it just pops out of the transaxle. I used a couple of good sized flat screw drivers or pry bars to pop it out of the transaxle (one on each side to spread the load evenly).


Going back in is the reverse with a few moderate blows to the axle to drive it into the transaxle. Oil the tip of the end that goes into the transaxle, and keep the axle straight as possible when driving it in. I recommend a cheap good sized deadblow from Harbor freight.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-31-2019, 12:05 AM
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If you replace the boots yourself get the tool that tightens up the bands that hold the boot on.
They help and do a great job.
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-12-2019, 06:59 PM
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Had it done this Winter. Right rear boot cost $200 at the dealer
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