Engine Braking on 700 Kodiak - Yamaha Kodiak 700 Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-31-2019, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Braking on 700 Kodiak

I ride up and down steep hills, and I carry up to 300 pounds with me and my saws, tools, and other things. I get great engine braking, but if I donít use my brakes, and get up to about 10 mph, I start to almost freewheel. Braking is good, at a slow speed, but it seems to go away once I get going a bit fast coming down hill.

I can deal with it, but I am curious what causes the engine breaking to lose its effectiveness at higher speeds.
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post #2 of 27 Old 08-31-2019, 11:52 PM
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The nature of the beast.

Try giving it a little bit of throttle to kick the clutches back in. That is what I would do on my 2000.

2016 Kodiak 700 base model with a few SE parts CV boot guards, receiver hitch, Grizzly bars. Trail Tech Striker speedometer/voltmeter. 501 Parts Electric Grabber locking diff
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post #3 of 27 Old 09-01-2019, 03:14 AM
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You may have a weak spring, or require a much stronger spring to help the cvt backshift properly. Maybe your one way bearing is slipping past 10 mph.

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 09-01-2019 at 03:39 AM.
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post #4 of 27 Old 09-01-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting observations and I will research that some. I don't have a good understanding on how this works. I don't think I mentioned that I always use Low range and 4x4, up and down the hills, and if I hold the speed down with the brakes, It holds back quite well. Thanks for the input and help!
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post #5 of 27 Old 09-02-2019, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRW View Post
Interesting observations and I will research that some. I don't have a good understanding on how this works. I don't think I mentioned that I always use Low range and 4x4, up and down the hills, and if I hold the speed down with the brakes, It holds back quite well. Thanks for the input and help!
What questions do you have? I'll more then gladly try to answer any questions you may have...
Hopefully we can find an answer to your problem if one exists.

In my case my Grizzly has tremendous engine breaking in high and especially low, but my CVT has alot of mods done. ( see signature)

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 09-02-2019 at 12:08 AM.
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post #6 of 27 Old 09-02-2019, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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I blame this on my excess weight that I carry. That is one big question. Can I have this checked under factory warranty? I can live with this, but I use a lot of brakes.

What is the one way bearing?

I have one more question also. If I am using excess brakes, should I concentrate on using the front brakes, as they seem like they will be easy to replace, compared to the rear brakes?

And thanks a bunch for the answers to you and JimP
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post #7 of 27 Old 09-02-2019, 10:54 PM
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Try the adding a little throttle trick the next time it happens.

I learned it from riding snow machines to slow down going downhill

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2016 Kodiak 700 base model with a few SE parts CV boot guards, receiver hitch, Grizzly bars. Trail Tech Striker speedometer/voltmeter. 501 Parts Electric Grabber locking diff
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post #8 of 27 Old 09-03-2019, 01:17 AM
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Try the adding a little throttle trick the next time it happens.

I learned it from riding snow machines to slow down going downhill

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Worth a try but probably won't work on a constant belt tension system like our Grizzly / Kodiak utilize.

But it does work on my Yamaha 700 triple Venture Snowmobile and all other snowmobiles as well as , Can Am, Kawasaki, and Polaris Atvs as they all utilities the same non constant belt tension cvt systems. These systems often need the engine to be reved up a bit to get the primary sheave to close and clamp down on the belt to transmit wheel / track momentom to the Engine while decelerating.

2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 09-03-2019 at 03:26 AM.
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post #9 of 27 Old 09-03-2019, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
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I blame this on my excess weight that I carry. That is one big question. Can I have this checked under factory warranty? I can live with this, but I use a lot of brakes.

What is the one way bearing?

I have one more question also. If I am using excess brakes, should I concentrate on using the front brakes, as they seem like they will be easy to replace, compared to the rear brakes?

And thanks a bunch for the answers to you and JimP
One way bearing or sprag clutch is secured in your wet clutch drum but rides on your wet clutch / crankshaft assembly shaft. As the motor revs up to about 1800 rpms the wet clutch shoes are moved out by centrifugal force and start grabbed the drum witch turns your primary sheave. At this moment the wet clutch ( sprag clutch) simply slides on the wet clutch / crankshaft shaft. But as you release the throttle the
cam shape steel wedges of the sprag clutch "bite" onto the wet clutch / crankshaft assembly witch transmits all the wheels rotating momentum to your your crankshaft and the engine's compression slows the bike down. Without a properly working one way bearing your bike will tend to free wheel, every time you let off the throttle.

This is a photo of my bike but yours is the exact same. You can see the one way bearing (sprag clutch) in the drum. Also you can see the wet assembly / shoes secured on the crankshaft as well as the surface area the sprag clutch slides / bites on.
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2009 Grizzly 550 Special Edition, Red Midnight Armour, EPS, 26"Pitbull Growler BG2.5 xor, on 12"polished alloy SE wheels with 1"spacers, Yamaha overfenders & windshield, Heat Demon grips & thumb warmers, 2500lbs Warn winch, two up seat / storage box, Moose rear bumper, Gold Plugs in diffs & engine, COOP45 machined sheave + 0.5mm shim (3.1:1), 18 gram weights, EPI Orange spring

Last edited by Vincent; 09-03-2019 at 05:18 AM.
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post #10 of 27 Old 09-03-2019, 07:09 AM
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At 10mph the clutches are starting to shift to a higher ratio which works against engine braking. On VERY steep hills mine start to pick up speed slowly until the engine sound like its near red line and then really starts gathering speed. On my Rancher 420 you could possibly blow the engine in a situation like this as it wouldn't shift to 2nd to protect itself on its own. I think you just found the limits of how much the engine can slow you down. The same shim/machined clutch that raises the clutch ratio to ~3:1 would also help reducing the initial gear ratio.
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